(1514,2,'2018-06-22 21:35:40','2018-06-22 21:35:40','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a>\nAttic Air-Sealing\nBasement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\nSidewall Air-Sealing\nWeatherstripping Doors and Hatches		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br />Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<br />Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall<br />Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<br />Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p style=\"tab-stops: 208.2pt;\">After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.</p>		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		<p>If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.</p>		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/radon\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>www.epa.gov/radon</u></a> for more information.</p>		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		Sealing the floor deck\nAlthough it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.\nCrawlspaces\nCrawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\nSlab-on-grade\nIf your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.</p>		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-22 21:35:40','2018-06-22 21:35:40','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1515,2,'2018-06-22 21:43:14','2018-06-22 21:43:14','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a>\nAttic Air-Sealing\nBasement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\nSidewall Air-Sealing\nWeatherstripping Doors and Hatches		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br />Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<br />Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall<br />Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<br />Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p style=\"tab-stops: 208.2pt;\">After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.</p>		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		<p>If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.</p>		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/radon\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>www.epa.gov/radon</u></a> for more information.</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.</p>		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.</p>		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-22 21:43:14','2018-06-22 21:43:14','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1517,2,'2018-06-22 21:48:45','2018-06-22 21:48:45','','ava-3.jpg','','inherit','open','closed','','ava-3-jpg','','','2018-06-22 21:48:45','2018-06-22 21:48:45','',0,'/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ava-3.jpg',0,'attachment','image/jpeg',0),(1518,2,'2018-06-22 21:59:28','2018-06-22 21:59:28','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a>\nAttic Air-Sealing\nBasement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\nSidewall Air-Sealing\nWeatherstripping Doors and Hatches		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br />Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<br />Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall<br />Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<br />Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p style=\"tab-stops: 208.2pt;\">After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.</p>		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		<p>If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.</p>		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/radon\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>www.epa.gov/radon</u></a> for more information.</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n										<img width=\"800\" height=\"600\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ava-3.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ava-3.jpg 800w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ava-3-300x225.jpg 300w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ava-3-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" />											\n		<p><b>Blower-Door Testing</b></p><p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<br />It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance<br />professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.</p>		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.</p>		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-22 21:59:28','2018-06-22 21:59:28','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1520,2,'2018-06-22 22:04:50','2018-06-22 22:04:50','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a>\nAttic Air-Sealing\nBasement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\nSidewall Air-Sealing\nWeatherstripping Doors and Hatches		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br />Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<br />Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall<br />Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<br />Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p style=\"tab-stops: 208.2pt;\">After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.</p>		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		<p>If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.</p>		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/radon\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>www.epa.gov/radon</u></a> for more information.</p>		\n										<img width=\"1401\" height=\"1101\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/air-sealing_attic-details.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/air-sealing_attic-details.png 1401w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/air-sealing_attic-details-300x236.png 300w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/air-sealing_attic-details-768x604.png 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/air-sealing_attic-details-1024x805.png 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1401px) 100vw, 1401px\" />											\n		<p><b>Blower-Door Testing</b></p><p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<br />It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance<br />professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.</p>		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.</p>		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-22 22:04:50','2018-06-22 22:04:50','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1521,2,'2018-06-22 22:11:53','2018-06-22 22:11:53','','blower-door-test','','inherit','open','closed','','blower-door-test','','','2018-06-22 22:11:53','2018-06-22 22:11:53','',44,'/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg',0,'attachment','image/jpeg',0),(1522,2,'2018-06-22 22:12:50','2018-06-22 22:12:50','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p><a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p><p>Attic Air-Sealing</p><p>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p><p>Sidewall Air-Sealing</p><p>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br />Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<br />Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall<br />Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<br />Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p style=\"tab-stops: 208.2pt;\">After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.</p>		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		<p>If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.</p>		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/radon\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>www.epa.gov/radon</u></a> for more information.</p>		\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p><p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance<br />professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.</p>		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.</p>		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-22 22:12:50','2018-06-22 22:12:50','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1523,2,'2018-06-22 22:13:33','2018-06-22 22:13:33','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br />Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<br />Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall<br />Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<br />Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p style=\"tab-stops: 208.2pt;\">After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.</p>		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		<p>If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.</p>		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/radon\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>www.epa.gov/radon</u></a> for more information.</p>		\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p><p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance<br />professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.</p>		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.</p>		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-22 22:13:33','2018-06-22 22:13:33','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1524,2,'2018-06-22 22:14:17','2018-06-22 22:14:17','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br />Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<br />Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall<br />Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<br />Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p style=\"tab-stops: 208.2pt;\">After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.</p>		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		<p>If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.</p>		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/radon\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>www.epa.gov/radon</u></a> for more information.</p>		\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p><p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance<br />professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.</p>		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.</p>		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-22 22:14:17','2018-06-22 22:14:17','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1525,2,'2018-06-22 22:18:38','2018-06-22 22:18:38','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br />Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<br />Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall<br />Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<br />Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p style=\"tab-stops: 208.2pt;\">After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.</p>		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		<p>If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.</p>		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/radon\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>www.epa.gov/radon</u></a> for more information.</p>		\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p><p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance<br />professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.</p>		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.</p>		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-22 22:18:38','2018-06-22 22:18:38','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1527,2,'2018-06-22 22:34:22','2018-06-22 22:34:22','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br />Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<br />Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall<br />Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<br />Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p style=\"tab-stops: 208.2pt;\">After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.</p>		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		<p>If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.</p>		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/radon\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>www.epa.gov/radon</u></a> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p><p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance<br />professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.</p>		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.</p>		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-22 22:34:22','2018-06-22 22:34:22','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1528,2,'2018-06-22 22:34:51','2018-06-22 22:34:51','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br />Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<br />Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall<br />Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<br />Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p style=\"tab-stops: 208.2pt;\">After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.</p>		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		<p>If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.</p>		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/radon\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>www.epa.gov/radon</u></a> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p><p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance<br />professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.</p>		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.</p>		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-22 22:34:51','2018-06-22 22:34:51','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1530,2,'2018-06-22 22:44:09','2018-06-22 22:44:09','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br />Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<br />Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall<br />Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<br />Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p style=\"tab-stops: 208.2pt;\">After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.</p>		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		<p>If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.</p>		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/radon\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>www.epa.gov/radon</u></a> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p><p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance<br />professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.</p>		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.</p>		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-22 22:44:09','2018-06-22 22:44:09','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1531,2,'2018-06-22 22:53:31','2018-06-22 22:53:31','<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\"><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br />Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<br />Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall<br />Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<br />Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p style=\"tab-stops: 208.2pt;\">After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Pro Tip</p>		\n		<p>If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/radon\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>www.epa.gov/radon</u></a> for more information.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p><p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance<br />professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Service penetrations</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Energy New England</h4>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Website</h4>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">social media</h4>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','*RECOMMENDATION PAGES','','publish','closed','closed','','recommendation-pages','','','2018-06-22 22:53:32','2018-06-22 22:53:32','',0,'http://ev.ene.org/?elementor_library=recommendation-pages',0,'elementor_library','',0),(1532,2,'2018-06-22 22:53:31','2018-06-22 22:53:31','','*RECOMMENDATION PAGES','','inherit','closed','closed','','1531-revision-v1','','','2018-06-22 22:53:31','2018-06-22 22:53:31','',1531,'http://ev.ene.org/1531-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1533,2,'2018-06-22 22:53:32','2018-06-22 22:53:32','<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\"><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br />Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<br />Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall<br />Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<br />Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p style=\"tab-stops: 208.2pt;\">After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Pro Tip</p>		\n		<p>If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/radon\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>www.epa.gov/radon</u></a> for more information.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p><p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance<br />professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Service penetrations</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Energy New England</h4>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Website</h4>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">social media</h4>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','*RECOMMENDATION PAGES','','inherit','closed','closed','','1531-revision-v1','','','2018-06-22 22:53:32','2018-06-22 22:53:32','',1531,'http://ev.ene.org/1531-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1535,2,'2018-06-23 00:02:32','2018-06-23 00:02:32','<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Contact</h2>		\n		Thank you for visiting the Energy Efficiency website for Energy New England.','HERO (min height)','','publish','closed','closed','','hero-min-height','','','2018-06-23 00:02:32','2018-06-23 00:02:32','',0,'http://ev.ene.org/?elementor_library=hero-min-height',0,'elementor_library','',0),(1536,2,'2018-06-23 00:02:32','2018-06-23 00:02:32','','HERO (min height)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1535-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 00:02:32','2018-06-23 00:02:32','',1535,'http://ev.ene.org/1535-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1537,2,'2018-06-23 00:02:32','2018-06-23 00:02:32','<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Contact</h2>		\n		Thank you for visiting the Energy Efficiency website for Energy New England.','HERO (min height)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1535-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 00:02:32','2018-06-23 00:02:32','',1535,'http://ev.ene.org/1535-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1538,2,'2018-06-23 00:03:09','2018-06-23 00:03:09','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-1024x768.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-1024x768.png 1024w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-300x225.png 300w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-768x576.png 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities.png 1401w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br />Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<br />Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall<br />Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<br />Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p style=\"tab-stops: 208.2pt;\">After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.</p>		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		<p>If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.</p>		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/radon\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>www.epa.gov/radon</u></a> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p><p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance<br />professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.</p>		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.</p>		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 00:03:09','2018-06-23 00:03:09','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1539,2,'2018-06-23 00:05:07','2018-06-23 00:05:07','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-1024x768.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-1024x768.png 1024w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-300x225.png 300w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-768x576.png 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities.png 1401w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br />Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<br />Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall<br />Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<br />Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p style=\"tab-stops: 208.2pt;\">After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.</p>		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		<p>If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.</p>		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/radon\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>www.epa.gov/radon</u></a> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p><p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance<br />professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.</p>		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.</p>		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 00:05:07','2018-06-23 00:05:07','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1541,2,'2018-06-23 00:17:33','2018-06-23 00:17:33','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											\n			<h2>Book information</h2>		\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 00:17:33','2018-06-23 00:17:33','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1542,2,'2018-06-23 00:18:11','2018-06-23 00:18:11','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											\n			<h2>Book information</h2>		\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 00:18:11','2018-06-23 00:18:11','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1544,2,'2018-06-23 00:25:31','2018-06-23 00:25:31','','book-cover','','inherit','open','closed','','book-cover','','','2018-06-23 00:25:31','2018-06-23 00:25:31','',44,'/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg',0,'attachment','image/jpeg',0),(1545,2,'2018-06-23 00:26:33','2018-06-23 00:26:33','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n										<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />											\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 00:26:33','2018-06-23 00:26:33','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1546,2,'2018-06-23 00:27:26','2018-06-23 00:27:26','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n										<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />											\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 00:27:26','2018-06-23 00:27:26','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1547,2,'2018-06-23 00:31:44','2018-06-23 00:31:44','<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/braintree-electric-light-department-beld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Braintree\n					</a>','*BLUE BUTTON','','inherit','closed','closed','','1454-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 00:31:44','2018-06-23 00:31:44','',1454,'http://ev.ene.org/1454-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1548,2,'2018-06-23 00:31:44','2018-06-23 00:31:44','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n										<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />											\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.		\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/braintree-electric-light-department-beld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Buy\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 00:31:44','2018-06-23 00:31:44','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1549,2,'2018-06-23 00:33:49','2018-06-23 00:33:49','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n										<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />											\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.		\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/braintree-electric-light-department-beld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Buy on amazon\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 00:33:49','2018-06-23 00:33:49','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1550,2,'2018-06-23 00:36:18','2018-06-23 00:36:18','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n										<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />											\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.		\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/braintree-electric-light-department-beld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Buy on amazon\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 00:36:18','2018-06-23 00:36:18','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1551,2,'2018-06-23 00:38:36','2018-06-23 00:38:36','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n										<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />											\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.		\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/braintree-electric-light-department-beld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Buy on amazon\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 00:38:36','2018-06-23 00:38:36','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1553,2,'2018-06-23 00:42:09','2018-06-23 00:42:09','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n										<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />											\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.		\n			<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" role=\"button\">\n						Buy on amazon\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 00:42:09','2018-06-23 00:42:09','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1555,2,'2018-06-23 00:54:16','2018-06-23 00:54:16','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n										<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />											\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.		\n			<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" role=\"button\">\n						Buy on amazon\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 00:54:16','2018-06-23 00:54:16','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1556,2,'2018-06-23 00:57:53','2018-06-23 00:57:53','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n										<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />											\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is a noted expert on energy-efficient residential construction and renovation. A long-time engineer, he has helped diagnose and repair such varied problems as building air leakage, indoor air quality, HVAC system failures, plus combustion and moisture issues. Bruce has also led national seminars on energy-efficient residential construction, codes, building science, and mechanical systems.<b><br /></b></p>		\n			<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" role=\"button\">\n						Buy on amazon\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 00:57:53','2018-06-23 00:57:53','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1557,2,'2018-06-23 00:59:35','2018-06-23 00:59:35','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n										<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />											\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is a noted expert on energy-efficient residential construction and renovation. A long-time engineer, he has helped diagnose and repair such varied problems as building air leakage, indoor air quality, HVAC system failures, plus combustion and moisture issues. Bruce has also led national seminars on energy-efficient residential construction, codes, building science, and mechanical systems.<b><br /></b></p>		\n			<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" role=\"button\">\n						Buy on amazon\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 00:59:35','2018-06-23 00:59:35','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1558,2,'2018-06-23 01:00:44','2018-06-23 01:00:44','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n										<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />											\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is a noted expert on energy-efficient residential construction and renovation. A long-time engineer, he has helped diagnose and repair such varied problems as building air leakage, indoor air quality, HVAC system failures, plus combustion and moisture issues. Bruce has also led national seminars on energy-efficient residential construction, codes, building science, and mechanical systems.<b><br /></b></p>		\n			<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" role=\"button\">\n						Buy on amazon\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 01:00:44','2018-06-23 01:00:44','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1559,2,'2018-06-23 01:05:26','2018-06-23 01:05:26','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n										<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />											\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is a noted expert on energy-efficient residential construction and renovation. A long-time engineer, he has helped diagnose and repair such varied problems as building air leakage, indoor air quality, HVAC system failures, plus combustion and moisture issues. Bruce has also led national seminars on energy-efficient residential construction, codes, building science, and mechanical systems.<b><br /></b></p>		\n			<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" role=\"button\">\n						Buy on amazon\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 01:05:26','2018-06-23 01:05:26','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1560,2,'2018-06-23 01:07:09','2018-06-23 01:07:09','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is a noted expert on energy-efficient residential construction and renovation. A long-time engineer, he has helped diagnose and repair such varied problems as building air leakage, indoor air quality, HVAC system failures, plus combustion and moisture issues. Bruce has also led national seminars on energy-efficient residential construction, codes, building science, and mechanical systems.<b><br /></b></p>		\n			<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" role=\"button\">\n						Buy on amazon\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 01:07:09','2018-06-23 01:07:09','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1561,2,'2018-06-23 01:08:50','2018-06-23 01:08:50','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is a noted expert on energy-efficient residential construction and renovation. A long-time engineer, he has helped diagnose and repair such varied problems as building air leakage, indoor air quality, HVAC system failures, plus combustion and moisture issues. Bruce has also led national seminars on energy-efficient residential construction, codes, building science, and mechanical systems.<b><br /></b></p>		\n			<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" role=\"button\">\n						Buy on amazon\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 01:08:50','2018-06-23 01:08:50','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1563,2,'2018-06-23 01:14:26','2018-06-23 01:14:26','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is a noted expert on energy-efficient residential construction and renovation. A long-time engineer, he has helped diagnose and repair such varied problems as building air leakage, indoor air quality, HVAC system failures, plus combustion and moisture issues. Bruce has also led national seminars on energy-efficient residential construction, codes, building science, and mechanical systems.<b><br /></b></p>		\n			<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" role=\"button\">\n						Buy on amazon\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 01:14:26','2018-06-23 01:14:26','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1565,2,'2018-06-23 01:25:01','2018-06-23 01:25:01','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is a noted expert on energy-efficient residential construction and renovation. A long-time engineer, he has helped diagnose and repair such varied problems as building air leakage, indoor air quality, HVAC system failures, plus combustion and moisture issues. Bruce has also led national seminars on energy-efficient residential construction, codes, building science, and mechanical systems.<b><br /></b></p>		\n			<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" role=\"button\">\n						Buy on amazon\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 01:25:01','2018-06-23 01:25:01','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1566,2,'2018-06-23 01:27:14','2018-06-23 01:27:14','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is a noted expert on energy-efficient residential construction and renovation. A long-time engineer, he has helped diagnose and repair such varied problems as building air leakage, indoor air quality, HVAC system failures, plus combustion and moisture issues. Bruce has also led national seminars on energy-efficient residential construction, codes, building science, and mechanical systems.<b><br /></b></p>		\n			<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" role=\"button\">\n						Buy on amazon\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 01:27:14','2018-06-23 01:27:14','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1571,2,'2018-06-23 01:45:31','2018-06-23 01:45:31','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is a noted expert on energy-efficient residential construction and renovation. A long-time engineer, he has helped diagnose and repair such varied problems as building air leakage, indoor air quality, HVAC system failures, plus combustion and moisture issues. Bruce has also led national seminars on energy-efficient residential construction, codes, building science, and mechanical systems.<b><br /></b></p>		\n			<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" role=\"button\">\n						Buy on amazon\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS','','inherit','closed','closed','','16-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 01:45:31','2018-06-23 01:45:31','',16,'http://ev.ene.org/16-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1573,2,'2018-06-23 02:10:59','2018-06-23 02:10:59','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p style=\"tab-stops: 208.2pt;\">After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.</p>		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		<p>If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.</p>		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/radon\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>www.epa.gov/radon</u></a> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p><p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance<br />professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.</p>		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.</p>		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 02:10:59','2018-06-23 02:10:59','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1575,2,'2018-06-23 02:13:38','2018-06-23 02:13:38','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p style=\"tab-stops: 208.2pt;\">After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.</p>		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		<p>If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.</p>		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/radon\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>www.epa.gov/radon</u></a> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p><p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance<br />professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.</p>		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.</p>		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 02:13:38','2018-06-23 02:13:38','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1577,2,'2018-06-23 02:23:31','2018-06-23 02:23:31','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 02:23:31','2018-06-23 02:23:31','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1578,2,'2018-06-23 02:24:26','2018-06-23 02:24:26','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 02:24:26','2018-06-23 02:24:26','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1579,2,'2018-06-23 02:25:09','2018-06-23 02:25:09','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 02:25:09','2018-06-23 02:25:09','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1580,2,'2018-06-23 02:26:26','2018-06-23 02:26:26','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><a href=\"http://Sealing Air Leaks\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-23 02:26:26','2018-06-23 02:26:26','',44,'http://ev.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1613,2,'2018-06-25 23:05:34','2018-06-25 23:05:34','<a href=\"#\" role=\"button\">\n						HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT\n					</a>','BTN - HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT','','publish','closed','closed','','btn-home-energy-assessment','','','2018-06-27 02:27:53','2018-06-27 02:27:53','',0,'http://ev.ene.org/?elementor_library=btn-home-energy-assessment',0,'elementor_library','',0),(1614,2,'2018-06-25 23:05:35','2018-06-25 23:05:35','','BTN - HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT','','inherit','closed','closed','','1613-revision-v1','','','2018-06-25 23:05:35','2018-06-25 23:05:35','',1613,'http://ev.ene.org/1613-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1615,2,'2018-06-25 23:05:35','2018-06-25 23:05:35','<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<a href=\"#\" role=\"button\">\n						HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT\n					</a>','BTN - HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT','','inherit','closed','closed','','1613-revision-v1','','','2018-06-25 23:05:35','2018-06-25 23:05:35','',1613,'http://ev.ene.org/1613-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1616,2,'2018-06-25 23:10:23','2018-06-25 23:10:23','<h2>Braintree Electric Light Department</h2>','H1','','publish','closed','closed','','h1','','','2018-08-17 00:13:46','2018-08-17 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title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h3 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Rebates</h3>','h2','','inherit','closed','closed','','1619-revision-v1','','','2018-06-25 23:11:28','2018-06-25 23:11:28','',1619,'http://ev.ene.org/1619-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1626,2,'2018-06-25 23:11:28','2018-06-25 23:11:28','<h3>Rebates</h3>','h2','','inherit','closed','closed','','1619-revision-v1','','','2018-06-25 23:11:28','2018-06-25 23:11:28','',1619,'http://ev.ene.org/1619-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1628,2,'2018-06-25 23:13:15','2018-06-25 23:13:15','<a href=\"#\" role=\"button\">\n						HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT\n					</a>','BTN - HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT','','inherit','closed','closed','','1613-revision-v1','','','2018-06-25 23:13:15','2018-06-25 23:13:15','',1613,'http://ev.ene.org/1613-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1669,2,'2018-06-26 18:44:53','2018-06-26 18:44:53','ENE provides comprehensive Residential Energy Assessment services for Hudson Light and Power Department residential customers. One of our highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors will examine your home’s heating system, lighting and weatherization needs.','h2','','inherit','closed','closed','','1471-revision-v1','','','2018-06-26 18:44:53','2018-06-26 18:44:53','',1471,'http://ev.ene.org/1471-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1729,2,'2018-06-27 01:37:27','2018-06-27 01:37:27','<p><em><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/belmont-municipality/?elementor-preview=40&amp;ver=1527294581#_msoanchor_1\">[LF1]</a>&nbsp;From&nbsp;<a style=\"font-size: 14px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.belmontlight.com/about-us/mission-history.php?id=6\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Belmont Light\'s website mission statement</a>.</em></p>','Footnote','','inherit','closed','closed','','668-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 01:37:27','2018-06-27 01:37:27','',668,'http://ev.ene.org/668-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1730,2,'2018-06-27 01:37:28','2018-06-27 01:37:28','<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>','footer - website','','inherit','closed','closed','','1056-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 01:37:28','2018-06-27 01:37:28','',1056,'http://ev.ene.org/1056-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1731,2,'2018-06-27 01:37:28','2018-06-27 01:37:28','<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>','footer - website','','inherit','closed','closed','','1056-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 01:37:28','2018-06-27 01:37:28','',1056,'http://ev.ene.org/1056-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1732,2,'2018-06-27 01:37:28','2018-06-27 01:37:28','<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>','footer - website','','inherit','closed','closed','','1056-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 01:37:28','2018-06-27 01:37:28','',1056,'http://ev.ene.org/1056-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1745,2,'2018-06-27 02:27:53','2018-06-27 02:27:53','<a href=\"#\" role=\"button\">\n						HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT\n					</a>','BTN - HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT','','inherit','closed','closed','','1613-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 02:27:53','2018-06-27 02:27:53','',1613,'http://ev.ene.org/1613-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1749,2,'2018-06-27 18:54:48','2018-06-27 18:54:48','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/build-like-a-pro-insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-070649.html#collateral-tabs\" role=\"button\">\n						Buy on amazon\n					</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p><p> </p><p style=\"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; caret-color: #000000; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; text-size-adjust: auto;\"><a style=\"color: #954f72; text-decoration-line: underline;\" href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\">https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html</a></p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS','','inherit','closed','closed','','16-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 18:54:48','2018-06-27 18:54:48','',16,'http://ev.ene.org/16-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1750,2,'2018-06-27 18:55:54','2018-06-27 18:55:54','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/build-like-a-pro-insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-070649.html#collateral-tabs\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS','','inherit','closed','closed','','16-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 18:55:54','2018-06-27 18:55:54','',16,'http://ev.ene.org/16-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),