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style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances\\u2019 energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3198\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c75\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"41bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Reducing Run Time<br \\/>Improving Efficiency<br \\/>Laundry<br \\/>Dishwasher<br \\/>Smart Shopping for New Appliances<\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"24d0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"17d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"28bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6c51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Air-Sealing Priorities\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"507f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5965\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities.png\",\"id\":1505},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7ada\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1396\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"69e8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Seal the high and low leaks\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"47b1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.<\\/p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.<\\/p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab\\u2014the home\\u2019s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4225\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7543\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3426\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b2e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>When walking around your house, you\\u2019re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don\\u2019t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don\\u2019t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can\\u2019t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible\\u2014from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that\\u2019s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4cbe\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5c5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2c7e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"221a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2664\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"42d9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"276b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6a10\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3681\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"23c0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5236\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"31c9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2fae\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a18\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1330\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"182f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"660b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"7cdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3269\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7231\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6641\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov\\/radon<\\/u> for more information.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3824\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7694\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3950\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true},\"caption_source\":\"custom\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"595c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4400\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7541\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"56d3\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"575\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6271\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"17ce\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6c6c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"13fa\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"34c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7dd4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7505\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2de8\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6944\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sidewall Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"649\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4f29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Service penetrations\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"59eb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"79f1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Transitions in exterior wall framing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"47ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. 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fa-linkedin\",\"_id\":\"dc10550\",\"link\":{\"is_external\":\"true\",\"url\":\"https:\\/\\/www.linkedin.com\\/company\\/energy-new-england\\/\",\"stylepress_template\":\"\",\"stylepress_display\":\"\",\"stylepress_width\":\"500\",\"nofollow\":\"\"}}],\"align\":\"\",\"icon_color\":\"custom\",\"icon_primary_color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0)\",\"icon_secondary_color\":\"rgba(255,255,255,0.45)\",\"icon_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":15},\"icon_padding\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":0},\"icon_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"hover_secondary_color\":\"#f49ac3\",\"align_mobile\":\"left\",\"align_tablet\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"social-icons\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false}]'),(11716,2018,'_elementor_version','0.4'),(11717,2019,'_elementor_edit_mode','builder'),(11718,2019,'_wp_page_template','default'),(11719,2019,'_elementor_page_settings','a:1:{s:21:\"background_background\";s:7:\"classic\";}'),(11720,2019,'_elementor_data','[{\"id\":\"ca8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"background_background\":\"gradient\",\"margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":0,\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":0,\"isLinked\":true},\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f93\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1b3c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"<p>Appliances<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances\\u2019 energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3198\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c75\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"41bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Reducing Run Time<br \\/>Improving Efficiency<br \\/>Buying Appliances<br \\/>\\u00a0 \\u00a0 Laundry<br \\/>\\u00a0 \\u00a0 Dishwasher<br \\/>Smart Shopping for New Appliances<\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"24d0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"17d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"28bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6c51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Run Time\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"507f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p class=\\\"MsoNormal\\\" style=\\\"margin-bottom: .0001pt; line-height: normal; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;\\\"><span style=\\\"font-family: \'Bembo\',serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Bembo; color: black;\\\">Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don\\u2019t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It\\u2019s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back<\\/span><\\/p><p class=\\\"MsoNormal\\\" style=\\\"margin-bottom: .0001pt; line-height: normal; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;\\\"><span style=\\\"font-family: \'Bembo\',serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Bembo; color: black;\\\">when temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more\\u2014provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don\\u2019t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative<\\/span><\\/p><p><span style=\\\"font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 107%; font-family: \'Bembo\',serif; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Bembo; color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA;\\\">humidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.<\\/span><\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5965\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7ada\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1396\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"69e8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Seal the high and low leaks\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"47b1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.<\\/p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.<\\/p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab\\u2014the home\\u2019s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4225\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7543\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3426\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b2e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>When walking around your house, you\\u2019re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don\\u2019t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don\\u2019t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can\\u2019t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible\\u2014from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that\\u2019s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4cbe\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5c5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2c7e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"221a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2664\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"42d9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"276b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6a10\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3681\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"23c0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5236\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"31c9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2fae\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a18\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1330\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"182f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"660b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"7cdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3269\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7231\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6641\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov\\/radon<\\/u> for more information.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3824\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7694\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3950\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true},\"caption_source\":\"custom\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"595c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4400\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7541\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"56d3\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"575\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6271\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"17ce\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6c6c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"13fa\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"34c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7dd4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7505\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2de8\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6944\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sidewall Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"649\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4f29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Service penetrations\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"59eb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"79f1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Transitions in exterior wall framing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"47ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. 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fa-linkedin\",\"_id\":\"dc10550\",\"link\":{\"is_external\":\"true\",\"url\":\"https:\\/\\/www.linkedin.com\\/company\\/energy-new-england\\/\",\"stylepress_template\":\"\",\"stylepress_display\":\"\",\"stylepress_width\":\"500\",\"nofollow\":\"\"}}],\"align\":\"\",\"icon_color\":\"custom\",\"icon_primary_color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0)\",\"icon_secondary_color\":\"rgba(255,255,255,0.45)\",\"icon_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":15},\"icon_padding\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":0},\"icon_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"hover_secondary_color\":\"#f49ac3\",\"align_mobile\":\"left\",\"align_tablet\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"social-icons\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false}]'),(11721,2019,'_elementor_version','0.4'),(11722,2020,'_elementor_edit_mode','builder'),(11723,2020,'_wp_page_template','default'),(11724,2020,'_elementor_page_settings','a:1:{s:21:\"background_background\";s:7:\"classic\";}'),(11725,2020,'_elementor_data','[{\"id\":\"ca8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"background_background\":\"gradient\",\"margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":0,\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":0,\"isLinked\":true},\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f93\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1b3c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"<p>Appliances<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances\\u2019 energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3198\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c75\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"41bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Reducing Run Time<br \\/>Improving Efficiency<br \\/>Buying Appliances<br \\/>\\u00a0 \\u00a0 Laundry<br \\/>\\u00a0 \\u00a0 Dishwasher<br \\/>Smart Shopping for New Appliances<\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"24d0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"17d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"28bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6c51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Run Time\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"507f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5965\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7ada\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1396\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"69e8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Seal the high and low leaks\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"47b1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.<\\/p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.<\\/p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab\\u2014the home\\u2019s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4225\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7543\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3426\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b2e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>When walking around your house, you\\u2019re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don\\u2019t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don\\u2019t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can\\u2019t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible\\u2014from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that\\u2019s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4cbe\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5c5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2c7e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"221a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2664\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"42d9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"276b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6a10\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3681\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"23c0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5236\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"31c9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2fae\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a18\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1330\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"182f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"660b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"7cdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3269\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7231\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6641\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. 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It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true},\"caption_source\":\"custom\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"595c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4400\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7541\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"56d3\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"575\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6271\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"17ce\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6c6c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"13fa\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"34c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7dd4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7505\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2de8\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6944\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sidewall Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"649\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4f29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Service penetrations\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"59eb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. 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fa-linkedin\",\"_id\":\"dc10550\",\"link\":{\"is_external\":\"true\",\"url\":\"https:\\/\\/www.linkedin.com\\/company\\/energy-new-england\\/\",\"stylepress_template\":\"\",\"stylepress_display\":\"\",\"stylepress_width\":\"500\",\"nofollow\":\"\"}}],\"align\":\"\",\"icon_color\":\"custom\",\"icon_primary_color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0)\",\"icon_secondary_color\":\"rgba(255,255,255,0.45)\",\"icon_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":15},\"icon_padding\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":0},\"icon_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"hover_secondary_color\":\"#f49ac3\",\"align_mobile\":\"left\",\"align_tablet\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"social-icons\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false}]'),(11726,2020,'_elementor_version','0.4'),(11733,2022,'_elementor_edit_mode','builder'),(11734,2022,'_wp_page_template','default'),(11735,2022,'_elementor_page_settings','a:1:{s:21:\"background_background\";s:7:\"classic\";}'),(11736,2022,'_elementor_data','[{\"id\":\"ca8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"background_background\":\"gradient\",\"margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":0,\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":0,\"isLinked\":true},\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f93\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1b3c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"<p>Appliances<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances\\u2019 energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3198\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c75\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"41bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Reducing Run Time<br \\/>Improving Efficiency<br \\/>Buying Appliances<br \\/>Smart Shopping for New Appliances<\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"24d0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"17d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"28bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6c51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Run Time\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"507f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don\\u2019t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It\\u2019s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back\\nwhen temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more\\u2014provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don\\u2019t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative\\nhumidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5965\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7ada\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1396\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"69e8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Seal the high and low leaks\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"47b1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.<\\/p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.<\\/p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab\\u2014the home\\u2019s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4225\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7543\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3426\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b2e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>When walking around your house, you\\u2019re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don\\u2019t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don\\u2019t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can\\u2019t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible\\u2014from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that\\u2019s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4cbe\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5c5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2c7e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"221a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2664\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"42d9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"276b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6a10\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3681\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"23c0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5236\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"31c9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2fae\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a18\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1330\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"182f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"660b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"7cdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3269\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7231\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6641\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. 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It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true},\"caption_source\":\"custom\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"595c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4400\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7541\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"56d3\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"575\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6271\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"17ce\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6c6c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"13fa\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"34c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7dd4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7505\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2de8\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6944\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sidewall Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"649\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4f29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Service penetrations\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"59eb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. 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fa-linkedin\",\"_id\":\"dc10550\",\"link\":{\"is_external\":\"true\",\"url\":\"https:\\/\\/www.linkedin.com\\/company\\/energy-new-england\\/\",\"stylepress_template\":\"\",\"stylepress_display\":\"\",\"stylepress_width\":\"500\",\"nofollow\":\"\"}}],\"align\":\"\",\"icon_color\":\"custom\",\"icon_primary_color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0)\",\"icon_secondary_color\":\"rgba(255,255,255,0.45)\",\"icon_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":15},\"icon_padding\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":0},\"icon_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"hover_secondary_color\":\"#f49ac3\",\"align_mobile\":\"left\",\"align_tablet\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"social-icons\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false}]'),(11737,2022,'_elementor_version','0.4'),(11738,2023,'_elementor_edit_mode','builder'),(11739,2023,'_wp_page_template','default'),(11740,2023,'_elementor_page_settings','a:1:{s:21:\"background_background\";s:7:\"classic\";}'),(11741,2023,'_elementor_data','[{\"id\":\"ca8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"background_background\":\"gradient\",\"margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":0,\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":0,\"isLinked\":true},\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f93\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1b3c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"<p>Appliances<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances\\u2019 energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3198\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c75\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"41bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Reducing Run Time<br \\/>Improving Efficiency<br \\/>Buying Appliances<br \\/>Smart Shopping for New Appliances<\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"24d0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"17d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"28bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6c51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Run Time\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"507f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don\\u2019t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It\\u2019s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back\\nwhen temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more\\u2014provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don\\u2019t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative\\nhumidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5965\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7ada\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1396\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"69e8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Seal the high and low leaks\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"47b1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.<\\/p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.<\\/p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab\\u2014the home\\u2019s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4225\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7543\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3426\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b2e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>When walking around your house, you\\u2019re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don\\u2019t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don\\u2019t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can\\u2019t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible\\u2014from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that\\u2019s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4cbe\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5c5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2c7e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"221a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2664\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"42d9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"276b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6a10\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3681\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"23c0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5236\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"31c9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2fae\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a18\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1330\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"182f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"660b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"7cdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3269\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7231\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6641\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. 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It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true},\"caption_source\":\"custom\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"595c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4400\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7541\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"56d3\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"575\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6271\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"17ce\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6c6c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"13fa\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"34c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. 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Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4f29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Service penetrations\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"59eb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. 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href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Air-Sealing Priorities<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Attic Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Sidewall Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}]'),(11763,2026,'_elementor_template_type','page'),(11764,2026,'_elementor_edit_mode','builder'),(11765,2026,'_wp_page_template','default'),(11766,2026,'_elementor_data','[{\"id\":\"12d4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Air-Sealing Priorities<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Attic Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Sidewall Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}]'),(11767,2024,'_elementor_version','0.4'),(11768,2024,'_elementor_template_widget_type','text-editor'),(11769,2027,'_elementor_template_type','widget'),(11770,2027,'_elementor_edit_mode','builder'),(11771,2027,'_wp_page_template','default'),(11772,2027,'_elementor_data','[{\"id\":2024,\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Air-Sealing Priorities<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Attic Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Sidewall Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}]'),(11773,2027,'_elementor_version','0.4'),(11774,2027,'_elementor_template_widget_type','text-editor'),(11775,2028,'_wp_page_template','default'),(11776,2028,'_elementor_edit_mode','builder'),(11777,2028,'_elementor_template_type','post'),(11778,2028,'_elementor_page_settings','a:1:{s:21:\"background_background\";s:7:\"classic\";}'),(11779,2028,'_elementor_data','[{\"id\":\"a5e\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"background_background\":\"gradient\",\"margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":0,\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":0,\"isLinked\":true},\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2709\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7a3d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"<p>Air-Sealing Priorities<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"802\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home\\u2019s energy efficiency. You\\u2019ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"52ed\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4704\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"d01fcb0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Air-Sealing Priorities<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Attic Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Sidewall Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2229\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6abc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4238\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"55f3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Air-Sealing Priorities\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"65e1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"44ec\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities.png\",\"id\":1505},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7d76\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"41a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6c38\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Seal the high and low leaks\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3c3a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.<\\/p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.<\\/p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab\\u2014the home\\u2019s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4c3\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1bae\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"745c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"24ed\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>When walking around your house, you\\u2019re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don\\u2019t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don\\u2019t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can\\u2019t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible\\u2014from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that\\u2019s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"58e2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"1bba\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"67fa\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"720f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3fc6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"296e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6ffc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5df1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2aa2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2e92\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4dab\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1e76\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"26b9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"1de6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"31f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"d62\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3241\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"645d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"68cb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5471\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"b23\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"ccf\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov\\/radon<\\/u> for more information.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"87b\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4bee\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5afc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true},\"caption_source\":\"custom\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6467\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"315b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"f77\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5328\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"623\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2186\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3cbd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"157e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"33ba\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"287f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"40f9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"239e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4b0d\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"58d9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"128e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"146b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sidewall Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"745a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"72e8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Service penetrations\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6f5c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5814\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Transitions in exterior wall framing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7061\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. 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href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Air-Sealing Priorities<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Attic Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Sidewall Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}]'),(11785,2029,'_elementor_version','0.4'),(11786,2029,'_elementor_template_widget_type','text-editor'),(11787,2030,'_elementor_edit_mode','builder'),(11788,2030,'_wp_page_template','default'),(11789,2030,'_elementor_page_settings','a:1:{s:21:\"background_background\";s:7:\"classic\";}'),(11790,2030,'_elementor_data','[{\"id\":\"ca8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"background_background\":\"gradient\",\"margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":0,\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":0,\"isLinked\":true},\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f93\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1b3c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"<p>Appliances<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances\\u2019 energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3198\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c75\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"41bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Reducing Run Time<br \\/>Improving Efficiency<br \\/>Buying Appliances<br \\/>Smart Shopping for New Appliances<\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"19323f4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Reducing Run Time<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Improving Efficiency<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Buying Appliances<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Improving Efficiency<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches<\\/a>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"24d0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"17d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"28bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6c51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Run Time\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"507f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don\\u2019t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It\\u2019s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back\\nwhen temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more\\u2014provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don\\u2019t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative\\nhumidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5965\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7ada\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1396\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"69e8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Seal the high and low leaks\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"47b1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.<\\/p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.<\\/p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab\\u2014the home\\u2019s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4225\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7543\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3426\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b2e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>When walking around your house, you\\u2019re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don\\u2019t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don\\u2019t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can\\u2019t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible\\u2014from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that\\u2019s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4cbe\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5c5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2c7e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"221a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2664\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"42d9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"276b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6a10\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3681\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"23c0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5236\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"31c9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2fae\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a18\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1330\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"182f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"660b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"7cdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3269\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7231\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6641\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov\\/radon<\\/u> for more information.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3824\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7694\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3950\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. 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However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"56d3\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"575\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6271\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"17ce\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. 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Appliances<\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"19323f4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Reducing Run Time<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Improving Efficiency<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Buying Appliances<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances<\\/a>\\n\\n\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"24d0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"17d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"28bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6c51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Run Time\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"507f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don\\u2019t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It\\u2019s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back\\nwhen temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more\\u2014provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don\\u2019t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative\\nhumidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5965\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7ada\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1396\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"69e8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Seal the high and low leaks\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"47b1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.<\\/p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.<\\/p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab\\u2014the home\\u2019s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4225\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7543\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3426\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b2e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>When walking around your house, you\\u2019re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don\\u2019t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don\\u2019t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can\\u2019t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible\\u2014from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that\\u2019s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4cbe\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5c5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2c7e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"221a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2664\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"42d9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"276b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6a10\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3681\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"23c0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5236\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"31c9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2fae\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a18\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1330\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"182f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"660b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"7cdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3269\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7231\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6641\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov\\/radon<\\/u> for more information.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3824\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7694\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3950\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true},\"caption_source\":\"custom\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"595c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4400\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7541\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"56d3\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"575\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6271\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"17ce\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6c6c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. 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style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances\\u2019 energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3198\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c75\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"19323f4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Reducing Run Time<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Improving Efficiency<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Buying Appliances<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"24d0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"17d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"28bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6c51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Run Time\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"507f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don\\u2019t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It\\u2019s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back\\nwhen temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more\\u2014provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don\\u2019t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative\\nhumidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5965\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7ada\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1396\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"69e8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Seal the high and low leaks\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"47b1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.<\\/p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.<\\/p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab\\u2014the home\\u2019s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4225\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7543\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3426\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b2e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>When walking around your house, you\\u2019re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don\\u2019t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don\\u2019t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can\\u2019t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible\\u2014from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that\\u2019s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4cbe\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5c5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2c7e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"221a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2664\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"42d9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"276b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6a10\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3681\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"23c0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5236\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"31c9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2fae\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a18\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1330\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"182f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"660b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"7cdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3269\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7231\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6641\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov\\/radon<\\/u> for more information.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3824\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7694\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3950\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true},\"caption_source\":\"custom\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"595c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4400\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7541\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"56d3\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"575\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6271\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"17ce\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6c6c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"13fa\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"34c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7dd4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7505\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2de8\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6944\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sidewall Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"649\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4f29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Service penetrations\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"59eb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"79f1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Transitions in exterior wall framing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"47ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. 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style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances\\u2019 energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3198\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c75\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"19323f4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Reducing Run Time<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Improving Efficiency<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Buying Appliances<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"24d0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"17d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"28bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6c51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Run Time\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"507f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don\\u2019t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It\\u2019s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back\\nwhen temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more\\u2014provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don\\u2019t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative\\nhumidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5965\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7ada\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1396\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"69e8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Seal the high and low leaks\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"47b1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.<\\/p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.<\\/p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab\\u2014the home\\u2019s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4225\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7543\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3426\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Improving Efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b2e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"It\\u2019s also possible to improve the efficiency of some appliances. Efficiency can often be increased by simple maintenance or by choosing the proper settings when using appliances.\\nRefrigeration The refrigerator is typically the biggest electricity user in the kitchen and is often the largest in the house. If your refrigerator is getting old, it\\u2019s probably worth replacing it with a new Energy Star model. New, efficient refrigerators use less than half the energy of standard models before 1993. If you are lucky enough to have a refrigerator that dates back to the 1970s or early 1980s and it still runs, take it\\nto the recycle center. Even if it\\u2019s the spare in the basement or garage, the energy savings will pay\\nfor a brand-new unit in just a few years. And buy the smallest, simplest fridge that will meet your\\nneeds; large Energy Star models use more electricity than smaller ones; through-door ice and\\nwater also use energy.\\n\\n To keep any refrigerator running right, ensure adequate air circulation around the unit. Keep it a few inches away from the wall, and don\\u2019t box it in with cabinets. It\\u2019s a good idea to vacuum the grill periodically, but there is no evidence that vacuuming dust off the coils inside actually saves electricity. Make sure the door seals are tight, keep the unit away from heat sources (don\\u2019t put it next\\nto the stove or dishwasher) and check the temperature setting. The refrigerator compartments\\nshould stay between 38\\u00b0F and 42\\u00b0F, and the freezer between 0\\u00b0F and 5\\u00b0F. If you have a power-saving switch, use it. Typically, the switch disables internal heaters that fight condensation; turn it off only if condensation occurs. Finally, keep refrigerators and freezers reasonably full; they are less efficient when they are nearly empty. Even more important, avoid the temptation to keep the old fridge in the garage\\nor basement for overflow (or the odd six-pack). Buying a new, highly efficient refrigerator won\\u2019t save any energy if you keep the old one running!\\n\\nIt\\u2019s a common mistake to assume that if the fridge is only keeping a few items cold it\\u2019s not working very hard. A refrigerator uses most of its energy keeping the inside of the box cold\\u2014even if it\\u2019s completely empty. If you can\\u2019t do without it, unplug the spare until you need it to stock up for that holiday gathering. One more buying tip: A manual-defrost chest freezer uses far less energy than an upright, auto-defrost\\nunit. Modern, airtight chest freezers rarely need defrosting, and are less likely to damage food\\nwith freezer burn.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4cbe\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5c5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2c7e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"221a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2664\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"42d9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"276b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6a10\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3681\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"23c0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5236\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"31c9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2fae\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a18\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1330\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"182f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"660b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"7cdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3269\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7231\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6641\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov\\/radon<\\/u> for more information.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3824\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7694\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3950\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true},\"caption_source\":\"custom\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"595c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4400\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7541\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"56d3\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"575\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6271\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"17ce\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6c6c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"13fa\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"34c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7dd4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7505\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2de8\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6944\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sidewall Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"649\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4f29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Service penetrations\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"59eb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"79f1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Transitions in exterior wall framing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"47ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4909\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"697d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6b01\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"55a2\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1180\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"19c6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"e3f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don\\u2019t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal 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fa-linkedin\",\"_id\":\"dc10550\",\"link\":{\"is_external\":\"true\",\"url\":\"https:\\/\\/www.linkedin.com\\/company\\/energy-new-england\\/\",\"stylepress_template\":\"\",\"stylepress_display\":\"\",\"stylepress_width\":\"500\",\"nofollow\":\"\"}}],\"align\":\"\",\"icon_color\":\"custom\",\"icon_primary_color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0)\",\"icon_secondary_color\":\"rgba(255,255,255,0.45)\",\"icon_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":15},\"icon_padding\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":0},\"icon_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"hover_secondary_color\":\"#f49ac3\",\"align_mobile\":\"left\",\"align_tablet\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"social-icons\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false}]'),(11813,2034,'_elementor_version','0.4'),(11814,2034,'_elementor_template_type','post'),(11821,2036,'_elementor_edit_mode','builder'),(11822,2036,'_wp_page_template','default'),(11823,2036,'_elementor_page_settings','a:1:{s:21:\"background_background\";s:7:\"classic\";}'),(11824,2036,'_elementor_data','[{\"id\":\"ca8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"background_background\":\"gradient\",\"margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":0,\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":0,\"isLinked\":true},\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f93\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1b3c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"<p>Appliances<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances\\u2019 energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3198\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c75\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"19323f4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Reducing Run Time<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Improving Efficiency<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Buying Appliances<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"24d0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"17d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"28bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6c51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Run Time\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"507f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don\\u2019t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It\\u2019s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back\\nwhen temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more\\u2014provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don\\u2019t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative\\nhumidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5965\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"e78bebe\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4225\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7543\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2fae\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"3426\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Improving Efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b2e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"It\\u2019s also possible to improve the efficiency of some appliances. Efficiency can often be increased by simple maintenance or by choosing the proper settings when using appliances.\\nRefrigeration The refrigerator is typically the biggest electricity user in the kitchen and is often the largest in the house. If your refrigerator is getting old, it\\u2019s probably worth replacing it with a new Energy Star model. New, efficient refrigerators use less than half the energy of standard models before 1993. If you are lucky enough to have a refrigerator that dates back to the 1970s or early 1980s and it still runs, take it\\nto the recycle center. Even if it\\u2019s the spare in the basement or garage, the energy savings will pay\\nfor a brand-new unit in just a few years. And buy the smallest, simplest fridge that will meet your\\nneeds; large Energy Star models use more electricity than smaller ones; through-door ice and\\nwater also use energy.\\n\\n To keep any refrigerator running right, ensure adequate air circulation around the unit. Keep it a few inches away from the wall, and don\\u2019t box it in with cabinets. It\\u2019s a good idea to vacuum the grill periodically, but there is no evidence that vacuuming dust off the coils inside actually saves electricity. Make sure the door seals are tight, keep the unit away from heat sources (don\\u2019t put it next\\nto the stove or dishwasher) and check the temperature setting. The refrigerator compartments\\nshould stay between 38\\u00b0F and 42\\u00b0F, and the freezer between 0\\u00b0F and 5\\u00b0F. If you have a power-saving switch, use it. Typically, the switch disables internal heaters that fight condensation; turn it off only if condensation occurs. Finally, keep refrigerators and freezers reasonably full; they are less efficient when they are nearly empty. Even more important, avoid the temptation to keep the old fridge in the garage\\nor basement for overflow (or the odd six-pack). Buying a new, highly efficient refrigerator won\\u2019t save any energy if you keep the old one running!\\n\\nIt\\u2019s a common mistake to assume that if the fridge is only keeping a few items cold it\\u2019s not working very hard. A refrigerator uses most of its energy keeping the inside of the box cold\\u2014even if it\\u2019s completely empty. If you can\\u2019t do without it, unplug the spare until you need it to stock up for that holiday gathering. One more buying tip: A manual-defrost chest freezer uses far less energy than an upright, auto-defrost\\nunit. Modern, airtight chest freezers rarely need defrosting, and are less likely to damage food\\nwith freezer burn.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4cbe\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5c5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2c7e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"221a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2664\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"42d9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"276b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6a10\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3681\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"23c0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5236\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"31c9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"0d42bd8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a18\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1330\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"182f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"660b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"7cdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3269\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7231\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6641\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov\\/radon<\\/u> for more information.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3824\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7694\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3950\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true},\"caption_source\":\"custom\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"595c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4400\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7541\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"56d3\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"575\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6271\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"17ce\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6c6c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"13fa\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"34c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7dd4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7505\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2de8\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6944\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sidewall Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"649\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4f29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Service penetrations\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"59eb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"79f1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Transitions in exterior wall framing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"47ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. 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