(2051,4,'2018-07-23 20:26:19','2018-07-23 20:26:19','<h2><p>Air-Conditioning</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Cooling Basics</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Reducing Loads</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Maintenance And Upgrades</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">New Air-Conditioning Systems</a></p>\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Cooling and Heating','','inherit','closed','closed','','48-revision-v1','','','2018-07-23 20:26:19','2018-07-23 20:26:19','',48,'http://ev.ene.org/48-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2053,4,'2018-07-23 20:35:47','2018-07-23 20:35:47','<h2><p>Air-Conditioning</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Cooling Basics</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Reducing Loads</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Maintenance And Upgrades</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">New Air-Conditioning Systems</a></p>\n			<h1>Cooling Basics</h1>		\n		Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads—and bills—benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.		\n			<p>Where does the heat come from?</p>		\n		In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it’s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it’s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Cooling and Heating','','inherit','closed','closed','','48-revision-v1','','','2018-07-23 20:35:47','2018-07-23 20:35:47','',48,'http://ev.ene.org/48-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2054,4,'2018-07-23 20:39:31','2018-07-23 20:39:31','<h2><p>Air-Conditioning</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Cooling Basics</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Reducing Loads</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Maintenance And Upgrades</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">New Air-Conditioning Systems</a></p>\n			<h1>Cooling Basics</h1>		\n		Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads—and bills—benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.		\n			<p>Where does the heat come from?</p>		\n		In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it’s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it’s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\n			<p>How air conditioners work</p>		\n		Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system’s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Cooling and Heating','','inherit','closed','closed','','48-revision-v1','','','2018-07-23 20:39:31','2018-07-23 20:39:31','',48,'http://ev.ene.org/48-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2055,4,'2018-07-23 20:43:20','2018-07-23 20:43:20','<h2><p>Air-Conditioning</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Cooling Basics</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Reducing Loads</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Maintenance And Upgrades</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">New Air-Conditioning Systems</a></p>\n			<h1>Cooling Basics</h1>		\n		Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads—and bills—benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.		\n			<p>Where does the heat come from?</p>		\n		In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it’s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it’s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\n			<p>How air conditioners work</p>		\n		Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system’s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\n			<h1>Reducing Loads</h1>		\n		With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than “cooling down” the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run—saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\n			<p>Reduce the need for cooling</p>		\n		One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system’s run time and saves energy. \nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4°F to 6°F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\n			<p>Duct insulation and sealing</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Cooling and Heating','','inherit','closed','closed','','48-revision-v1','','','2018-07-23 20:43:20','2018-07-23 20:43:20','',48,'http://ev.ene.org/48-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0);
INSERT INTO `wp_posts` VALUES (2056,4,'2018-07-23 20:44:32','2018-07-23 20:44:32','<h2><p>Air-Conditioning</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Cooling Basics</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Reducing Loads</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Maintenance And Upgrades</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">New Air-Conditioning Systems</a></p>\n			<h1>Cooling Basics</h1>		\n		Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads—and bills—benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.		\n			<p>Where does the heat come from?</p>		\n		In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it’s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it’s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\n			<p>How air conditioners work</p>		\n		Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system’s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\n			<h1>Reducing Loads</h1>		\n		With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than “cooling down” the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run—saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\n			<p>Reduce the need for cooling</p>		\n		One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system’s run time and saves energy. \nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4°F to 6°F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\n			<p>Duct insulation and sealing</p>		\n		Air-conditioning ducts have the same leakage and insulation issues as those of heating ducts. In fact, leaks and missing insulation in attic ductwork hurt air-conditioning systems more than heating systems, because during peak cooling times attics are usually much hotter than outdoor ambient temperatures. All air conditioning ducts in attics, crawlspaces, and garages should be thoroughly sealed and insulated		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Cooling and Heating','','inherit','closed','closed','','48-revision-v1','','','2018-07-23 20:44:32','2018-07-23 20:44:32','',48,'http://ev.ene.org/48-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2058,4,'2018-07-23 21:01:09','2018-07-23 21:01:09','<h2><p>Air-Conditioning</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Cooling Basics</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Reducing Loads</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Maintenance And Upgrades</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">New Air-Conditioning Systems</a></p>\n			<h1>Cooling Basics</h1>		\n		Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads—and bills—benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.		\n			<p>Where does the heat come from?</p>		\n		In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it’s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it’s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\n			<p>How air conditioners work</p>		\n		Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system’s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\n			<h1>Reducing Loads</h1>		\n		With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than “cooling down” the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run—saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\n			<p>Reduce the need for cooling</p>		\n		One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system’s run time and saves energy. \nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4°F to 6°F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\n			<p>Duct insulation and sealing</p>		\n		Air-conditioning ducts have the same leakage and insulation issues as those of heating ducts. In fact, leaks and missing insulation in attic ductwork hurt air-conditioning systems more than heating systems, because during peak cooling times attics are usually much hotter than outdoor ambient temperatures. All air conditioning ducts in attics, crawlspaces, and garages should be thoroughly sealed and insulated		\n			<h1>Maintenance and Upgrades</h1>		\n		Like most other equipment, air conditioners need regular maintenance and service. Some things you can probably do yourself, whereas others require a professional technician.		\n			<p>Airflow</p>		\n		Like heat pumps and furnaces, air-conditioning systems depend on adequate airflow to remove heat efficiently from your house. Whether you have a central air conditioner or individual room units, check the filters regularly and clean or replace them when they are dirty— once or twice a season should be adequate. Because airflow is important, do not shut off any of the supply registers in the system—\nespecially if the ducts are located in an attic, garage, or crawlspace.\n			<p>Cleaning air coils</p>		\n		When filters don’t work properly or air gets around them, the evaporator coil can become clogged with dirt and dust. Depending on the system, you may need a service technician to access the coil. If you can reach it yourself, lift the dirt from behind with a stiff brush. Be careful not to drive dirt further in or bend the fins. The outdoor condenser coil should also be kept clean and free of dirt and debris. Don’t spray water directly at the coil, which may drive dirt deeper into the space between the fins. Instead, using a long-bristle brush with flexible bristles, carefully insert the bristles between the fins, and lift the dirt from behind. 		\n			<p>Regular service</p>		\n		Regular service calls—typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, checking and cleaning the blower, condenser, and evaporator coils as needed, checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines, and checking the condensate drain. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing any airflow problems, and then carefully measuring and correcting the refrigerant charge. Like a heat pump, once that has been done, service technicians should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless there is evidence that something is wrong. Like a heat pump, an over- or undercharged air conditioner is less efficient (particularly older models), and systems are often improperly charged. Airflow must be in the recommended range of 400 CFM to 425 CFM per ton before the refrigerant charge can be measured. \n			<h1>New Air-Conditioning Systems</h1>		\n		If you live in a hot climate and have central air conditioning that is 20 years old or more, replacing your system with a new, energy-efficient model should pay for itself in a reasonable time. High-efficiency systems on the market today are more than twice as efficient as systems from the 1980s. But before running out and replacing your system, you will first need to do two other things: Finish any upgrades on the building enclosure, and become familiar with air conditioning products and installation criteria. Of course, if you have a fairly new system (less than 10 years old), it is probably more cost effective to maintain it and keep it running as efficiently as possible until it wears out. As always, energy-efficient upgrades always cost the least when you are fixing or replacing something anyway. If your old air conditioner is on its last legs or not operating, replace it with the most efficient unit you can find.\n			<p>High-efficiency air-conditioning</p>		\n		New central air conditioners are rated for energy performance with a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). SEER ratings are measurements under standardized test conditions of Btu per hour of cooling output, divided by input watts. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. New central air conditioners are required to have a SEER rating of at least 13; the most efficient units have SEER ratings from 16 to 23. Some of the best high efficiency systems have two-speed compressors; the lower speed provides better, more efficient cooling and dehumidification under mild, part load conditions. When you are replacing a central air conditioning unit with a more efficient one, it’s very important to match the new outdoor unit and the indoor evaporator coil. You may be able to save some money on the installation by keeping your old coil but be careful: you’re unlikely to get the full efficiency ratings of the new unit. If you get a proposal to replace only the outdoor unit, the contractor should be able to demonstrate that the existing indoor coil is listed for use with the new outdoor unit; don’t accept “don’t worry, it’s fine the way it is” as an answer.\n			<p>Sizing a system</p>		\n		Proper sizing has been emphasized as a key efficiency issue for years in the energy-efficiency world, but there’s little evidence that it affects operating costs very much. Duct leakage and insulation in unconditioned spaces are far more important, especially with modern, high efficiency equipment. \nOversized air conditioners do cost more to buy and maintain and require more airflow and larger ductwork. Dehumidification, which depends on air flowing through the evaporator coil for enough time to extract condensed moisture, is one important reason to carefully size an air conditioning system in humid climates. When an oversized system runs for only a few minutes, the moisture may just start to collect on the coils before the thermostat is satisfied. Once the unit shuts down, the moisture re-evaporates into the house. An air conditioner that is too large by 50 percent to 100 percent will be unable to control humidity effectively, so people may tend to set the thermostat lower to compensate. Many new, efficient air conditioners have multiple speeds or special dehumidification modes that can effectively compensate for oversizing; if you are in a humid climate, consider one of these features, or get a stand-alone dehumidifier.\nCorrect load calculations are based on your home’s window size, the glass type, and the size and R-values of the walls and roof. The proper size also varies with the direction the home faces: Sometimes a 90-degree rotation can cut the cooling load in half. If a contractor gives you a price for an air conditioner on the phone, or simply offers to replace the existing unit with a new one of the same size, get a bid from someone else, especially if you have already made energy improvements in your house. The money\nyou save by buying a smaller unit may pay for an efficiency upgrade.\nWhen installing a new air conditioner, shop for value, not just for price. Other things to look for when assessing bids on new air-conditioning equipment include the warranties (from both the manufacturer and the installer), service contracts, longevity of the business, customer references, and technician knowledge. Try to find a contractor who is an Energy Star partner and/or NATE certified, or regularly attends manufacturer’s trainings.\n		Ductless mini-split air conditioners are a great alternative to window units. They are more efficient and quieter, and they don’t use up a window (or allow air leakage). The most efficient units on the market are\nalso heat pumps that can save money on your heating bills, too. A mini-split costs about 10 times as much as a decent window unit, but may cost a third to a half as much as retrofitting central air into an existing home.\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Cooling and Heating','','inherit','closed','closed','','48-revision-v1','','','2018-07-23 21:01:09','2018-07-23 21:01:09','',48,'http://ev.ene.org/48-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2070,4,'2018-07-24 12:54:50','2018-07-24 12:54:50','Air-Conditioning\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor01\">Cooling Basics</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Reducing Loads</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor03\">Maintenance And Upgrades</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor04\">New Air-Conditioning Systems</a>\r\n<h1>Cooling Basics</h1>\r\nHeat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads—and bills—benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.\r\n\r\nWhere does the heat come from?\r\n\r\nIn the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it’s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures.\r\nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it’s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\r\n\r\nHow air conditioners work\r\n\r\nVirtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\r\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system’s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\r\n<h1>Reducing Loads</h1>\r\nWith cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than “cooling down” the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run—saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\r\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\r\n\r\nReduce the need for cooling\r\n\r\nOne surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system’s run time and saves energy.\r\nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4°F to 6°F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\r\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\r\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\r\n\r\nDuct insulation and sealing\r\n\r\nAir-conditioning ducts have the same leakage and insulation issues as those of heating ducts. In fact, leaks and missing insulation in attic ductwork hurt air-conditioning systems more than heating systems, because during peak cooling times attics are usually much hotter than outdoor ambient temperatures. All air conditioning ducts in attics, crawlspaces, and garages should be thoroughly sealed and insulated\r\n<h1>Maintenance and Upgrades</h1>\r\nLike most other equipment, air conditioners need regular maintenance and service. Some things you can probably do yourself, whereas others require a professional technician.\r\n\r\nAirflow\r\n\r\nLike heat pumps and furnaces, air-conditioning systems depend on adequate airflow to remove heat efficiently from your house. Whether you have a central air conditioner or individual room units, check the filters regularly and clean or replace them when they are dirty— once or twice a season should be adequate. Because airflow is important, do not shut off any of the supply registers in the system—\r\nespecially if the ducts are located in an attic, garage, or crawlspace.\r\n\r\nCleaning air coils\r\n\r\nWhen filters don’t work properly or air gets around them, the evaporator coil can become clogged with dirt and dust. Depending on the system, you may need a service technician to access the coil. If you can reach it yourself, lift the dirt from behind with a stiff brush. Be careful not to drive dirt further in or bend the fins. The outdoor condenser coil should also be kept clean and free of dirt and debris. Don’t spray water directly at the coil, which may drive dirt deeper into the space between the fins. Instead, using a long-bristle brush with flexible bristles, carefully insert the bristles between the fins, and lift the dirt from behind.\r\n\r\nRegular service\r\n\r\nRegular service calls—typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, checking and cleaning the blower, condenser, and evaporator coils as needed, checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines, and checking the condensate drain. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing any airflow problems, and then carefully measuring and correcting the refrigerant charge. Like a heat pump, once that has been done, service technicians should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless there is evidence that something is wrong. Like a heat pump, an over- or undercharged air conditioner is less efficient (particularly older models), and systems are often improperly charged. Airflow must be in the recommended range of 400 CFM to 425 CFM per ton before the refrigerant charge can be measured.\r\n<h1>New Air-Conditioning Systems</h1>\r\nIf you live in a hot climate and have central air conditioning that is 20 years old or more, replacing your system with a new, energy-efficient model should pay for itself in a reasonable time. High-efficiency systems on the market today are more than twice as efficient as systems from the 1980s. But before running out and replacing your system, you will first need to do two other things: Finish any upgrades on the building enclosure, and become familiar with air conditioning products and installation criteria. Of course, if you have a fairly new system (less than 10 years old), it is probably more cost effective to maintain it and keep it running as efficiently as possible until it wears out. As always, energy-efficient upgrades always cost the least when you are fixing or replacing something anyway. If your old air conditioner is on its last legs or not operating, replace it with the most efficient unit you can find.\r\n\r\nHigh-efficiency air-conditioning\r\n\r\nNew central air conditioners are rated for energy performance with a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). SEER ratings are measurements under standardized test conditions of Btu per hour of cooling output, divided by input watts. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. New central air conditioners are required to have a SEER rating of at least 13; the most efficient units have SEER ratings from 16 to 23. Some of the best high efficiency systems have two-speed compressors; the lower speed provides better, more efficient cooling and dehumidification under mild, part load conditions. When you are replacing a central air conditioning unit with a more efficient one, it’s very important to match the new outdoor unit and the indoor evaporator coil. You may be able to save some money on the installation by keeping your old coil but be careful: you’re unlikely to get the full efficiency ratings of the new unit. If you get a proposal to replace only the outdoor unit, the contractor should be able to demonstrate that the existing indoor coil is listed for use with the new outdoor unit; don’t accept “don’t worry, it’s fine the way it is” as an answer.\r\n\r\nSizing a system\r\n\r\nProper sizing has been emphasized as a key efficiency issue for years in the energy-efficiency world, but there’s little evidence that it affects operating costs very much. Duct leakage and insulation in unconditioned spaces are far more important, especially with modern, high efficiency equipment.\r\nOversized air conditioners do cost more to buy and maintain and require more airflow and larger ductwork. Dehumidification, which depends on air flowing through the evaporator coil for enough time to extract condensed moisture, is one important reason to carefully size an air conditioning system in humid climates. When an oversized system runs for only a few minutes, the moisture may just start to collect on the coils before the thermostat is satisfied. Once the unit shuts down, the moisture re-evaporates into the house. An air conditioner that is too large by 50 percent to 100 percent will be unable to control humidity effectively, so people may tend to set the thermostat lower to compensate. Many new, efficient air conditioners have multiple speeds or special dehumidification modes that can effectively compensate for oversizing; if you are in a humid climate, consider one of these features, or get a stand-alone dehumidifier.\r\nCorrect load calculations are based on your home’s window size, the glass type, and the size and R-values of the walls and roof. The proper size also varies with the direction the home faces: Sometimes a 90-degree rotation can cut the cooling load in half. If a contractor gives you a price for an air conditioner on the phone, or simply offers to replace the existing unit with a new one of the same size, get a bid from someone else, especially if you have already made energy improvements in your house. The money\r\nyou save by buying a smaller unit may pay for an efficiency upgrade.\r\nWhen installing a new air conditioner, shop for value, not just for price. Other things to look for when assessing bids on new air-conditioning equipment include the warranties (from both the manufacturer and the installer), service contracts, longevity of the business, customer references, and technician knowledge. Try to find a contractor who is an Energy Star partner and/or NATE certified, or regularly attends manufacturer’s trainings.\r\nDuctless mini-split air conditioners are a great alternative to window units. They are more efficient and quieter, and they don’t use up a window (or allow air leakage). The most efficient units on the market are\r\nalso heat pumps that can save money on your heating bills, too. A mini-split costs about 10 times as much as a decent window unit, but may cost a third to a half as much as retrofitting central air into an existing home.\r\n<h4>Energy New England</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li>100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 Foxborough, MA 02035</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-1200</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-0222</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">\r\nsolutions@ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ene.org/\">\r\nwww.ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>Website</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\"> Home\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\"> Energy Assessment\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\"> Recommendations\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\"> Town We Serve\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\"> Home Advisor\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"#\"> Shop\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\"> Contact\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>social media</h4>\r\n<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\r\nLinkedin\r\n</a>','Air Conditioning','','inherit','closed','closed','','48-revision-v1','','','2018-07-24 12:54:50','2018-07-24 12:54:50','',48,'http://ev.ene.org/48-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2097,4,'2018-07-24 15:15:56','2018-07-24 15:15:56','<h2><p>Air-Conditioning</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Cooling Basics</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Reducing Loads</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Maintenance And Upgrades</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">New Air-Conditioning Systems</a></p>\n			<h1>Cooling Basics</h1>		\n		Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads—and bills—benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.		\n			<p>Where does the heat come from?</p>		\n		In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it’s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it’s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\n			<p>How air conditioners work</p>		\n		Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system’s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\n			<h1>Reducing Loads</h1>		\n		With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than “cooling down” the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run—saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\n			<p>Reduce the need for cooling</p>		\n		One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system’s run time and saves energy. \nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4°F to 6°F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\n			<p>Duct insulation and sealing</p>		\n		Air-conditioning ducts have the same leakage and insulation issues as those of heating ducts. In fact, leaks and missing insulation in attic ductwork hurt air-conditioning systems more than heating systems, because during peak cooling times attics are usually much hotter than outdoor ambient temperatures. All air conditioning ducts in attics, crawlspaces, and garages should be thoroughly sealed and insulated		\n			<h1>Maintenance and Upgrades</h1>		\n		Like most other equipment, air conditioners need regular maintenance and service. Some things you can probably do yourself, whereas others require a professional technician.		\n			<p>Airflow</p>		\n		Like heat pumps and furnaces, air-conditioning systems depend on adequate airflow to remove heat efficiently from your house. Whether you have a central air conditioner or individual room units, check the filters regularly and clean or replace them when they are dirty— once or twice a season should be adequate. Because airflow is important, do not shut off any of the supply registers in the system—\nespecially if the ducts are located in an attic, garage, or crawlspace.\n			<p>Cleaning air coils</p>		\n		When filters don’t work properly or air gets around them, the evaporator coil can become clogged with dirt and dust. Depending on the system, you may need a service technician to access the coil. If you can reach it yourself, lift the dirt from behind with a stiff brush. Be careful not to drive dirt further in or bend the fins. The outdoor condenser coil should also be kept clean and free of dirt and debris. Don’t spray water directly at the coil, which may drive dirt deeper into the space between the fins. Instead, using a long-bristle brush with flexible bristles, carefully insert the bristles between the fins, and lift the dirt from behind. 		\n			<p>Regular service</p>		\n		Regular service calls—typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, checking and cleaning the blower, condenser, and evaporator coils as needed, checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines, and checking the condensate drain. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing any airflow problems, and then carefully measuring and correcting the refrigerant charge. Like a heat pump, once that has been done, service technicians should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless there is evidence that something is wrong. Like a heat pump, an over- or undercharged air conditioner is less efficient (particularly older models), and systems are often improperly charged. Airflow must be in the recommended range of 400 CFM to 425 CFM per ton before the refrigerant charge can be measured. \n			<h1>New Air-Conditioning Systems</h1>		\n		If you live in a hot climate and have central air conditioning that is 20 years old or more, replacing your system with a new, energy-efficient model should pay for itself in a reasonable time. High-efficiency systems on the market today are more than twice as efficient as systems from the 1980s. But before running out and replacing your system, you will first need to do two other things: Finish any upgrades on the building enclosure, and become familiar with air conditioning products and installation criteria. Of course, if you have a fairly new system (less than 10 years old), it is probably more cost effective to maintain it and keep it running as efficiently as possible until it wears out. As always, energy-efficient upgrades always cost the least when you are fixing or replacing something anyway. If your old air conditioner is on its last legs or not operating, replace it with the most efficient unit you can find.\n			<p>High-efficiency air-conditioning</p>		\n		New central air conditioners are rated for energy performance with a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). SEER ratings are measurements under standardized test conditions of Btu per hour of cooling output, divided by input watts. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. New central air conditioners are required to have a SEER rating of at least 13; the most efficient units have SEER ratings from 16 to 23. Some of the best high efficiency systems have two-speed compressors; the lower speed provides better, more efficient cooling and dehumidification under mild, part load conditions. When you are replacing a central air conditioning unit with a more efficient one, it’s very important to match the new outdoor unit and the indoor evaporator coil. You may be able to save some money on the installation by keeping your old coil but be careful: you’re unlikely to get the full efficiency ratings of the new unit. If you get a proposal to replace only the outdoor unit, the contractor should be able to demonstrate that the existing indoor coil is listed for use with the new outdoor unit; don’t accept “don’t worry, it’s fine the way it is” as an answer.\n			<p>Sizing a system</p>		\n		Proper sizing has been emphasized as a key efficiency issue for years in the energy-efficiency world, but there’s little evidence that it affects operating costs very much. Duct leakage and insulation in unconditioned spaces are far more important, especially with modern, high efficiency equipment. \nOversized air conditioners do cost more to buy and maintain and require more airflow and larger ductwork. Dehumidification, which depends on air flowing through the evaporator coil for enough time to extract condensed moisture, is one important reason to carefully size an air conditioning system in humid climates. When an oversized system runs for only a few minutes, the moisture may just start to collect on the coils before the thermostat is satisfied. Once the unit shuts down, the moisture re-evaporates into the house. An air conditioner that is too large by 50 percent to 100 percent will be unable to control humidity effectively, so people may tend to set the thermostat lower to compensate. Many new, efficient air conditioners have multiple speeds or special dehumidification modes that can effectively compensate for oversizing; if you are in a humid climate, consider one of these features, or get a stand-alone dehumidifier.\nCorrect load calculations are based on your home’s window size, the glass type, and the size and R-values of the walls and roof. The proper size also varies with the direction the home faces: Sometimes a 90-degree rotation can cut the cooling load in half. If a contractor gives you a price for an air conditioner on the phone, or simply offers to replace the existing unit with a new one of the same size, get a bid from someone else, especially if you have already made energy improvements in your house. The money\nyou save by buying a smaller unit may pay for an efficiency upgrade.\nWhen installing a new air conditioner, shop for value, not just for price. Other things to look for when assessing bids on new air-conditioning equipment include the warranties (from both the manufacturer and the installer), service contracts, longevity of the business, customer references, and technician knowledge. Try to find a contractor who is an Energy Star partner and/or NATE certified, or regularly attends manufacturer’s trainings.\n		Ductless mini-split air conditioners are a great alternative to window units. They are more efficient and quieter, and they don’t use up a window (or allow air leakage). The most efficient units on the market are\nalso heat pumps that can save money on your heating bills, too. A mini-split costs about 10 times as much as a decent window unit, but may cost a third to a half as much as retrofitting central air into an existing home.\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Air Conditioning','','inherit','closed','closed','','48-revision-v1','','','2018-07-24 15:15:56','2018-07-24 15:15:56','',48,'http://ev.ene.org/48-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2098,4,'2018-07-24 15:18:05','2018-07-24 15:18:05','<h2><p>Appliances & Lighting</p></h2>		\n		<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances’ energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.</p><p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Reducing Run Time</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Improving Efficiency</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Buying Appliances</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Lighting</a></p>		\n			<h1>Reducing Run Time</h1>		\n		Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don’t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It’s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back\nwhen temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more—provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don’t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative\nhumidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\n			<h1>Improving Efficiency</h1>		\n		It’s also possible to improve the efficiency of some appliances. Efficiency can often be increased by simple maintenance or by choosing the proper settings when using appliances.\nRefrigeration The refrigerator is typically the biggest electricity user in the kitchen and is often the largest in the house. If your refrigerator is getting old, it’s probably worth replacing it with a new Energy Star model. New, efficient refrigerators use less than half the energy of standard models before 1993. If you are lucky enough to have a refrigerator that dates back to the 1970s or early 1980s and it still runs, take it\nto the recycle center. Even if it’s the spare in the basement or garage, the energy savings will pay\nfor a brand-new unit in just a few years. And buy the smallest, simplest fridge that will meet your\nneeds; large Energy Star models use more electricity than smaller ones; through-door ice and\nwater also use energy.\n To keep any refrigerator running right, ensure adequate air circulation around the unit. Keep it a few inches away from the wall, and don’t box it in with cabinets. It’s a good idea to vacuum the grill periodically, but there is no evidence that vacuuming dust off the coils inside actually saves electricity. Make sure the door seals are tight, keep the unit away from heat sources (don’t put it next\nto the stove or dishwasher) and check the temperature setting. The refrigerator compartments\nshould stay between 38°F and 42°F, and the freezer between 0°F and 5°F. If you have a power-saving switch, use it. Typically, the switch disables internal heaters that fight condensation; turn it off only if condensation occurs. Finally, keep refrigerators and freezers reasonably full; they are less efficient when they are nearly empty. Even more important, avoid the temptation to keep the old fridge in the garage\nor basement for overflow (or the odd six-pack). Buying a new, highly efficient refrigerator won’t save any energy if you keep the old one running!\nIt’s a common mistake to assume that if the fridge is only keeping a few items cold it’s not working very hard. A refrigerator uses most of its energy keeping the inside of the box cold—even if it’s completely empty. If you can’t do without it, unplug the spare until you need it to stock up for that holiday gathering. One more buying tip: A manual-defrost chest freezer uses far less energy than an upright, auto-defrost\nunit. Modern, airtight chest freezers rarely need defrosting, and are less likely to damage food\nwith freezer burn.\n			<h1>Buying Appliances</h1>		\n			<p>Laundry</p>		\n		Washing clothes uses energy in three ways: Washers and dryers have motors that move clothes and water; washers use hot water, which is heated with gas or electricity; and dryers heat clothes to dry them out. When you do a load of laundry, pay attention to the washer settings. Always use a cold-water rinse, and use a warm or cold wash for loads when you can. A warm/ cold cycle uses about half as much total energy as a hot/cold cycle. Also, pay attention to the size of the load; fill, but don’t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\n For dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don’t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather’s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line. \n			<p>Dishwasher</p>		\n		You can minimize dishwasher energy by paying attention to the settings. Don’t use the “Heavy” or “Pots and Pans” cycle unless you really need to. A fast scraping or rinsing of dishes (especially starchy stuff) does help the dishwasher do a better job, so you can use the “Light” setting. But always use cold water for pre-rinsing. Use a premium dishwasher detergent, and let the dishwasher do the job it’s designed for: cutting grease. Wait until the machine is full before using it: It uses the same amount of energy whether you wash one dish or thirty. Many new dishwashers have sensors that stop the machine as particulates in the water clear (indicating that the dishes are clean). If you don’t have to take the dishes out right away, you can run the machine with the “Air-Dry” setting (sometimes called “Energy Saver”).\nIt’s okay to use the dishwasher: In fact, research shows that even careful hand washing uses more hot water and soap than a modern dishwasher. And today’s very efficient dishwashers are reasonably priced—there are Energy Star–rated dishwashers at every point in the price spectrum.\nsize of the load; fill, but don’t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\nFor dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don’t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather’s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line.		\n			<h1>Smart Shopping for New Appliances</h1>		\n		<p>Minimum efficiency regulations for new appliances have increased over the years, so even the least-efficient new models typically use much less energy than appliances that are 10 or more years old.<br />In most cases, it’s not cost-effective to go out and buy new, energy-efficient products just to save energy. Two exceptions to this rule are older refrigerators and dehumidifiers. For other appliances, look for the most efficient products available when you do go shopping—and always choose an Energy Star–labeled appliance at a minimum. It’s worth some research in advance; even within the Energy Star labeling program, there can be a wide range of efficiency. For example, to get an Energy Star label, refrigerators<br />must save at least 20 percent over federal standards, but some models save over 50 percent. Also, minimum requirements vary with features: A side-by-side model with through-door ice can use almost 50 percent more than a top-freezer model without ice—even though both are Energy Star rated. Listings of efficiency levels by model number for most Energy Star products are available at www.energystar.gov/products.</p>		\n			<h1>Lighting</h1>		\n		There are two basic approaches to making the lights in your home more efficient: eliminate unnecessary usage and use the most efficient products available. Many of us heard the message “turn off lights when you’re not using them” while we were growing up. Of course, how much light you need is a matter of eyesight and personal taste. Turning off a light isn’t always a practical solution, except when you leave the\nroom—then there’s no excuse. One of the best ways to eliminate unnecessary light usage is with controls. Regularly used indoor lights can be put on timers or occupancy sensors so they aren’t left on for hours when no one is using them. Exterior walkway and security lighting can be put on a combination of\ntimers, motion sensors, or photocell controls to minimize their use while ensuring that they are\non whenever needed.\n			<p>LED Lighting</p>		\n		<p>LED lighting technology is developing rapidly. In just a few years, a number of good-quality LEDs have become available (though they are still expensive). The products will keep getting better, and prices will continue to drop, over the next few years at least. LEDs are fundamentally different than other light sources. An LED is a semiconductor—basically, a tiny computer chip—that generates light. LEDs have been around for decades in electronic equipment displays and status lights, but by nature a single LED generates a focused point-source of light in a single, saturated color such as red, yellow, or blue. Getting an LED to look like an incandescent bulb is a challenge; most manufacturers combine many LEDs of different colors to approximate warm, yellow-white light and to disperse the light in a useful pattern.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Appliances','','inherit','closed','closed','','2013-revision-v1','','','2018-07-24 15:18:05','2018-07-24 15:18:05','',2013,'http://ev.ene.org/2013-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2107,4,'2018-07-25 17:50:27','2018-07-25 17:50:27','<h2><p>Air-Conditioning</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Cooling Basics</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Reducing Loads</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Maintenance And Upgrades</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">New Air-Conditioning Systems</a></p>\n			<h1>Cooling Basics</h1>		\n		Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads—and bills—benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.		\n			<p>Where does the heat come from?</p>		\n		In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it’s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it’s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\n			<p>How air conditioners work</p>		\n		Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system’s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\n			<h1>Reducing Loads</h1>		\n		With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than “cooling down” the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run—saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\n			<p>Reduce the need for cooling</p>		\n		One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system’s run time and saves energy. \nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4°F to 6°F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Cond_Pic1.png\" title=\"Air_Cond_Pic1\" alt=\"Air_Cond_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>When you buy a ceiling fan, always choose an Energy Star model. Hundreds are available, with or without built-in efficient lights, for $75 to $225 each.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Duct insulation and sealing</p>		\n		Air-conditioning ducts have the same leakage and insulation issues as those of heating ducts. In fact, leaks and missing insulation in attic ductwork hurt air-conditioning systems more than heating systems, because during peak cooling times attics are usually much hotter than outdoor ambient temperatures. All air conditioning ducts in attics, crawlspaces, and garages should be thoroughly sealed and insulated		\n			<h1>Maintenance and Upgrades</h1>		\n		Like most other equipment, air conditioners need regular maintenance and service. Some things you can probably do yourself, whereas others require a professional technician.		\n			<p>Airflow</p>		\n		Like heat pumps and furnaces, air-conditioning systems depend on adequate airflow to remove heat efficiently from your house. Whether you have a central air conditioner or individual room units, check the filters regularly and clean or replace them when they are dirty— once or twice a season should be adequate. Because airflow is important, do not shut off any of the supply registers in the system—\nespecially if the ducts are located in an attic, garage, or crawlspace.\n			<p>Cleaning air coils</p>		\n		When filters don’t work properly or air gets around them, the evaporator coil can become clogged with dirt and dust. Depending on the system, you may need a service technician to access the coil. If you can reach it yourself, lift the dirt from behind with a stiff brush. Be careful not to drive dirt further in or bend the fins. The outdoor condenser coil should also be kept clean and free of dirt and debris. Don’t spray water directly at the coil, which may drive dirt deeper into the space between the fins. Instead, using a long-bristle brush with flexible bristles, carefully insert the bristles between the fins, and lift the dirt from behind. 		\n			<p>Regular service</p>		\n		Regular service calls—typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, checking and cleaning the blower, condenser, and evaporator coils as needed, checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines, and checking the condensate drain. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing any airflow problems, and then carefully measuring and correcting the refrigerant charge. Like a heat pump, once that has been done, service technicians should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless there is evidence that something is wrong. Like a heat pump, an over- or undercharged air conditioner is less efficient (particularly older models), and systems are often improperly charged. Airflow must be in the recommended range of 400 CFM to 425 CFM per ton before the refrigerant charge can be measured. \n			<h1>New Air-Conditioning Systems</h1>		\n		If you live in a hot climate and have central air conditioning that is 20 years old or more, replacing your system with a new, energy-efficient model should pay for itself in a reasonable time. High-efficiency systems on the market today are more than twice as efficient as systems from the 1980s. But before running out and replacing your system, you will first need to do two other things: Finish any upgrades on the building enclosure, and become familiar with air conditioning products and installation criteria. Of course, if you have a fairly new system (less than 10 years old), it is probably more cost effective to maintain it and keep it running as efficiently as possible until it wears out. As always, energy-efficient upgrades always cost the least when you are fixing or replacing something anyway. If your old air conditioner is on its last legs or not operating, replace it with the most efficient unit you can find.\n			<p>High-efficiency air-conditioning</p>		\n		New central air conditioners are rated for energy performance with a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). SEER ratings are measurements under standardized test conditions of Btu per hour of cooling output, divided by input watts. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. New central air conditioners are required to have a SEER rating of at least 13; the most efficient units have SEER ratings from 16 to 23. Some of the best high efficiency systems have two-speed compressors; the lower speed provides better, more efficient cooling and dehumidification under mild, part load conditions. When you are replacing a central air conditioning unit with a more efficient one, it’s very important to match the new outdoor unit and the indoor evaporator coil. You may be able to save some money on the installation by keeping your old coil but be careful: you’re unlikely to get the full efficiency ratings of the new unit. If you get a proposal to replace only the outdoor unit, the contractor should be able to demonstrate that the existing indoor coil is listed for use with the new outdoor unit; don’t accept “don’t worry, it’s fine the way it is” as an answer.\n			<p>Sizing a system</p>		\n		Proper sizing has been emphasized as a key efficiency issue for years in the energy-efficiency world, but there’s little evidence that it affects operating costs very much. Duct leakage and insulation in unconditioned spaces are far more important, especially with modern, high efficiency equipment. \nOversized air conditioners do cost more to buy and maintain and require more airflow and larger ductwork. Dehumidification, which depends on air flowing through the evaporator coil for enough time to extract condensed moisture, is one important reason to carefully size an air conditioning system in humid climates. When an oversized system runs for only a few minutes, the moisture may just start to collect on the coils before the thermostat is satisfied. Once the unit shuts down, the moisture re-evaporates into the house. An air conditioner that is too large by 50 percent to 100 percent will be unable to control humidity effectively, so people may tend to set the thermostat lower to compensate. Many new, efficient air conditioners have multiple speeds or special dehumidification modes that can effectively compensate for oversizing; if you are in a humid climate, consider one of these features, or get a stand-alone dehumidifier.\nCorrect load calculations are based on your home’s window size, the glass type, and the size and R-values of the walls and roof. The proper size also varies with the direction the home faces: Sometimes a 90-degree rotation can cut the cooling load in half. If a contractor gives you a price for an air conditioner on the phone, or simply offers to replace the existing unit with a new one of the same size, get a bid from someone else, especially if you have already made energy improvements in your house. The money\nyou save by buying a smaller unit may pay for an efficiency upgrade.\nWhen installing a new air conditioner, shop for value, not just for price. Other things to look for when assessing bids on new air-conditioning equipment include the warranties (from both the manufacturer and the installer), service contracts, longevity of the business, customer references, and technician knowledge. Try to find a contractor who is an Energy Star partner and/or NATE certified, or regularly attends manufacturer’s trainings.\n		Ductless mini-split air conditioners are a great alternative to window units. They are more efficient and quieter, and they don’t use up a window (or allow air leakage). The most efficient units on the market are\nalso heat pumps that can save money on your heating bills, too. A mini-split costs about 10 times as much as a decent window unit, but may cost a third to a half as much as retrofitting central air into an existing home.\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Air Conditioning','','inherit','closed','closed','','48-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 17:50:27','2018-07-25 17:50:27','',48,'http://ev.ene.org/48-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2108,4,'2018-07-25 17:54:23','2018-07-25 17:54:23','<h2><p>Air-Conditioning</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Cooling Basics</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Reducing Loads</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Maintenance And Upgrades</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">New Air-Conditioning Systems</a></p>\n			<h1>Cooling Basics</h1>		\n		Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads—and bills—benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.		\n			<p>Where does the heat come from?</p>		\n		In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it’s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it’s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\n			<p>How air conditioners work</p>		\n		Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system’s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\n			<h1>Reducing Loads</h1>		\n		With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than “cooling down” the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run—saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\n			<p>Reduce the need for cooling</p>		\n		One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system’s run time and saves energy. \nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4°F to 6°F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Cond_Pic1.png\" title=\"Air_Cond_Pic1\" alt=\"Air_Cond_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>When you buy a ceiling fan, always choose an Energy Star model. Hundreds are available, with or without built-in efficient lights, for $75 to $225 each.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Duct insulation and sealing</p>		\n		Air-conditioning ducts have the same leakage and insulation issues as those of heating ducts. In fact, leaks and missing insulation in attic ductwork hurt air-conditioning systems more than heating systems, because during peak cooling times attics are usually much hotter than outdoor ambient temperatures. All air conditioning ducts in attics, crawlspaces, and garages should be thoroughly sealed and insulated		\n			<h1>Maintenance and Upgrades</h1>		\n		Like most other equipment, air conditioners need regular maintenance and service. Some things you can probably do yourself, whereas others require a professional technician.		\n			<p>Airflow</p>		\n		Like heat pumps and furnaces, air-conditioning systems depend on adequate airflow to remove heat efficiently from your house. Whether you have a central air conditioner or individual room units, check the filters regularly and clean or replace them when they are dirty— once or twice a season should be adequate. Because airflow is important, do not shut off any of the supply registers in the system—\nespecially if the ducts are located in an attic, garage, or crawlspace.\n			<p>Cleaning air coils</p>		\n		When filters don’t work properly or air gets around them, the evaporator coil can become clogged with dirt and dust. Depending on the system, you may need a service technician to access the coil. If you can reach it yourself, lift the dirt from behind with a stiff brush. Be careful not to drive dirt further in or bend the fins. The outdoor condenser coil should also be kept clean and free of dirt and debris. Don’t spray water directly at the coil, which may drive dirt deeper into the space between the fins. Instead, using a long-bristle brush with flexible bristles, carefully insert the bristles between the fins, and lift the dirt from behind. 		\n			<p>Regular service</p>		\n		Regular service calls—typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, checking and cleaning the blower, condenser, and evaporator coils as needed, checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines, and checking the condensate drain. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing any airflow problems, and then carefully measuring and correcting the refrigerant charge. Like a heat pump, once that has been done, service technicians should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless there is evidence that something is wrong. Like a heat pump, an over- or undercharged air conditioner is less efficient (particularly older models), and systems are often improperly charged. Airflow must be in the recommended range of 400 CFM to 425 CFM per ton before the refrigerant charge can be measured. \n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"236\" height=\"181\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_conditioning_Pic2.png\" alt=\"\" />											<figcaption>Window- or wall-mounted air conditioners have lower efficiency ratings than central systems, but there are no ducts to waste the cold air. And cooling only one or two rooms can use much less energy than cooling an entire house.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h1>New Air-Conditioning Systems</h1>		\n		If you live in a hot climate and have central air conditioning that is 20 years old or more, replacing your system with a new, energy-efficient model should pay for itself in a reasonable time. High-efficiency systems on the market today are more than twice as efficient as systems from the 1980s. But before running out and replacing your system, you will first need to do two other things: Finish any upgrades on the building enclosure, and become familiar with air conditioning products and installation criteria. Of course, if you have a fairly new system (less than 10 years old), it is probably more cost effective to maintain it and keep it running as efficiently as possible until it wears out. As always, energy-efficient upgrades always cost the least when you are fixing or replacing something anyway. If your old air conditioner is on its last legs or not operating, replace it with the most efficient unit you can find.\n			<p>High-efficiency air-conditioning</p>		\n		New central air conditioners are rated for energy performance with a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). SEER ratings are measurements under standardized test conditions of Btu per hour of cooling output, divided by input watts. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. New central air conditioners are required to have a SEER rating of at least 13; the most efficient units have SEER ratings from 16 to 23. Some of the best high efficiency systems have two-speed compressors; the lower speed provides better, more efficient cooling and dehumidification under mild, part load conditions. When you are replacing a central air conditioning unit with a more efficient one, it’s very important to match the new outdoor unit and the indoor evaporator coil. You may be able to save some money on the installation by keeping your old coil but be careful: you’re unlikely to get the full efficiency ratings of the new unit. If you get a proposal to replace only the outdoor unit, the contractor should be able to demonstrate that the existing indoor coil is listed for use with the new outdoor unit; don’t accept “don’t worry, it’s fine the way it is” as an answer.\n			<p>Sizing a system</p>		\n		Proper sizing has been emphasized as a key efficiency issue for years in the energy-efficiency world, but there’s little evidence that it affects operating costs very much. Duct leakage and insulation in unconditioned spaces are far more important, especially with modern, high efficiency equipment. \nOversized air conditioners do cost more to buy and maintain and require more airflow and larger ductwork. Dehumidification, which depends on air flowing through the evaporator coil for enough time to extract condensed moisture, is one important reason to carefully size an air conditioning system in humid climates. When an oversized system runs for only a few minutes, the moisture may just start to collect on the coils before the thermostat is satisfied. Once the unit shuts down, the moisture re-evaporates into the house. An air conditioner that is too large by 50 percent to 100 percent will be unable to control humidity effectively, so people may tend to set the thermostat lower to compensate. Many new, efficient air conditioners have multiple speeds or special dehumidification modes that can effectively compensate for oversizing; if you are in a humid climate, consider one of these features, or get a stand-alone dehumidifier.\nCorrect load calculations are based on your home’s window size, the glass type, and the size and R-values of the walls and roof. The proper size also varies with the direction the home faces: Sometimes a 90-degree rotation can cut the cooling load in half. If a contractor gives you a price for an air conditioner on the phone, or simply offers to replace the existing unit with a new one of the same size, get a bid from someone else, especially if you have already made energy improvements in your house. The money\nyou save by buying a smaller unit may pay for an efficiency upgrade.\nWhen installing a new air conditioner, shop for value, not just for price. Other things to look for when assessing bids on new air-conditioning equipment include the warranties (from both the manufacturer and the installer), service contracts, longevity of the business, customer references, and technician knowledge. Try to find a contractor who is an Energy Star partner and/or NATE certified, or regularly attends manufacturer’s trainings.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Conditioning_Pic3.png\" title=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic3\" alt=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic3\" />											<figcaption>All new air conditioners have an Energy Guide label that shows its efficiency rating, as well as a comparison with the ratings of other units of the same type. Room units have an EER, while central systems have a SEER.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n		Ductless mini-split air conditioners are a great alternative to window units. They are more efficient and quieter, and they don’t use up a window (or allow air leakage). The most efficient units on the market are\nalso heat pumps that can save money on your heating bills, too. A mini-split costs about 10 times as much as a decent window unit, but may cost a third to a half as much as retrofitting central air into an existing home.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/air_Conditioning_Pic4.png\" title=\"air_Conditioning_Pic4\" alt=\"air_Conditioning_Pic4\" />											<figcaption>All new air conditioners have an Energy Guide label that shows its efficiency rating, as well as a comparison with the ratings of other units of the same type. Room units have an EER, while central systems have a SEER.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Air Conditioning','','inherit','closed','closed','','48-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 17:54:23','2018-07-25 17:54:23','',48,'http://ev.ene.org/48-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2109,4,'2018-07-25 17:55:09','2018-07-25 17:55:09','<h2><p>Air-Conditioning</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Cooling Basics</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Reducing Loads</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Maintenance And Upgrades</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">New Air-Conditioning Systems</a></p>\n			<h1>Cooling Basics</h1>		\n		Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads—and bills—benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.		\n			<p>Where does the heat come from?</p>		\n		In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it’s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it’s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\n			<p>How air conditioners work</p>		\n		Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system’s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\n			<h1>Reducing Loads</h1>		\n		With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than “cooling down” the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run—saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\n			<p>Reduce the need for cooling</p>		\n		One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system’s run time and saves energy. \nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4°F to 6°F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Cond_Pic1.png\" title=\"Air_Cond_Pic1\" alt=\"Air_Cond_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>When you buy a ceiling fan, always choose an Energy Star model. Hundreds are available, with or without built-in efficient lights, for $75 to $225 each.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Duct insulation and sealing</p>		\n		Air-conditioning ducts have the same leakage and insulation issues as those of heating ducts. In fact, leaks and missing insulation in attic ductwork hurt air-conditioning systems more than heating systems, because during peak cooling times attics are usually much hotter than outdoor ambient temperatures. All air conditioning ducts in attics, crawlspaces, and garages should be thoroughly sealed and insulated		\n			<h1>Maintenance and Upgrades</h1>		\n		Like most other equipment, air conditioners need regular maintenance and service. Some things you can probably do yourself, whereas others require a professional technician.		\n			<p>Airflow</p>		\n		Like heat pumps and furnaces, air-conditioning systems depend on adequate airflow to remove heat efficiently from your house. Whether you have a central air conditioner or individual room units, check the filters regularly and clean or replace them when they are dirty— once or twice a season should be adequate. Because airflow is important, do not shut off any of the supply registers in the system—\nespecially if the ducts are located in an attic, garage, or crawlspace.\n			<p>Cleaning air coils</p>		\n		When filters don’t work properly or air gets around them, the evaporator coil can become clogged with dirt and dust. Depending on the system, you may need a service technician to access the coil. If you can reach it yourself, lift the dirt from behind with a stiff brush. Be careful not to drive dirt further in or bend the fins. The outdoor condenser coil should also be kept clean and free of dirt and debris. Don’t spray water directly at the coil, which may drive dirt deeper into the space between the fins. Instead, using a long-bristle brush with flexible bristles, carefully insert the bristles between the fins, and lift the dirt from behind. 		\n			<p>Regular service</p>		\n		Regular service calls—typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, checking and cleaning the blower, condenser, and evaporator coils as needed, checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines, and checking the condensate drain. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing any airflow problems, and then carefully measuring and correcting the refrigerant charge. Like a heat pump, once that has been done, service technicians should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless there is evidence that something is wrong. Like a heat pump, an over- or undercharged air conditioner is less efficient (particularly older models), and systems are often improperly charged. Airflow must be in the recommended range of 400 CFM to 425 CFM per ton before the refrigerant charge can be measured. \n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"236\" height=\"181\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_conditioning_Pic2.png\" alt=\"\" />											<figcaption>Window- or wall-mounted air conditioners have lower efficiency ratings than central systems, but there are no ducts to waste the cold air. And cooling only one or two rooms can use much less energy than cooling an entire house.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h1>New Air-Conditioning Systems</h1>		\n		If you live in a hot climate and have central air conditioning that is 20 years old or more, replacing your system with a new, energy-efficient model should pay for itself in a reasonable time. High-efficiency systems on the market today are more than twice as efficient as systems from the 1980s. But before running out and replacing your system, you will first need to do two other things: Finish any upgrades on the building enclosure, and become familiar with air conditioning products and installation criteria. Of course, if you have a fairly new system (less than 10 years old), it is probably more cost effective to maintain it and keep it running as efficiently as possible until it wears out. As always, energy-efficient upgrades always cost the least when you are fixing or replacing something anyway. If your old air conditioner is on its last legs or not operating, replace it with the most efficient unit you can find.\n			<p>High-efficiency air-conditioning</p>		\n		New central air conditioners are rated for energy performance with a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). SEER ratings are measurements under standardized test conditions of Btu per hour of cooling output, divided by input watts. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. New central air conditioners are required to have a SEER rating of at least 13; the most efficient units have SEER ratings from 16 to 23. Some of the best high efficiency systems have two-speed compressors; the lower speed provides better, more efficient cooling and dehumidification under mild, part load conditions. When you are replacing a central air conditioning unit with a more efficient one, it’s very important to match the new outdoor unit and the indoor evaporator coil. You may be able to save some money on the installation by keeping your old coil but be careful: you’re unlikely to get the full efficiency ratings of the new unit. If you get a proposal to replace only the outdoor unit, the contractor should be able to demonstrate that the existing indoor coil is listed for use with the new outdoor unit; don’t accept “don’t worry, it’s fine the way it is” as an answer.\n			<p>Sizing a system</p>		\n		Proper sizing has been emphasized as a key efficiency issue for years in the energy-efficiency world, but there’s little evidence that it affects operating costs very much. Duct leakage and insulation in unconditioned spaces are far more important, especially with modern, high efficiency equipment. \nOversized air conditioners do cost more to buy and maintain and require more airflow and larger ductwork. Dehumidification, which depends on air flowing through the evaporator coil for enough time to extract condensed moisture, is one important reason to carefully size an air conditioning system in humid climates. When an oversized system runs for only a few minutes, the moisture may just start to collect on the coils before the thermostat is satisfied. Once the unit shuts down, the moisture re-evaporates into the house. An air conditioner that is too large by 50 percent to 100 percent will be unable to control humidity effectively, so people may tend to set the thermostat lower to compensate. Many new, efficient air conditioners have multiple speeds or special dehumidification modes that can effectively compensate for oversizing; if you are in a humid climate, consider one of these features, or get a stand-alone dehumidifier.\nCorrect load calculations are based on your home’s window size, the glass type, and the size and R-values of the walls and roof. The proper size also varies with the direction the home faces: Sometimes a 90-degree rotation can cut the cooling load in half. If a contractor gives you a price for an air conditioner on the phone, or simply offers to replace the existing unit with a new one of the same size, get a bid from someone else, especially if you have already made energy improvements in your house. The money\nyou save by buying a smaller unit may pay for an efficiency upgrade.\nWhen installing a new air conditioner, shop for value, not just for price. Other things to look for when assessing bids on new air-conditioning equipment include the warranties (from both the manufacturer and the installer), service contracts, longevity of the business, customer references, and technician knowledge. Try to find a contractor who is an Energy Star partner and/or NATE certified, or regularly attends manufacturer’s trainings.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Conditioning_Pic3.png\" title=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic3\" alt=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic3\" />											<figcaption>All new air conditioners have an Energy Guide label that shows its efficiency rating, as well as a comparison with the ratings of other units of the same type. Room units have an EER, while central systems have a SEER.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n		Ductless mini-split air conditioners are a great alternative to window units. They are more efficient and quieter, and they don’t use up a window (or allow air leakage). The most efficient units on the market are\nalso heat pumps that can save money on your heating bills, too. A mini-split costs about 10 times as much as a decent window unit, but may cost a third to a half as much as retrofitting central air into an existing home.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/air_Conditioning_Pic4.png\" title=\"air_Conditioning_Pic4\" alt=\"air_Conditioning_Pic4\" />											<figcaption>All new air conditioners have an Energy Guide label that shows its efficiency rating, as well as a comparison with the ratings of other units of the same type. Room units have an EER, while central systems have a SEER.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Conditioning_Pic5.png\" title=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic5\" alt=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic5\" />											<figcaption>New air-conditioning systems are more than twice as efficient as the minimum standards of 20 years ago—the best ones have almost triple the efficiency.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Air Conditioning','','inherit','closed','closed','','48-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 17:55:09','2018-07-25 17:55:09','',48,'http://ev.ene.org/48-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2111,4,'2018-07-25 18:03:03','2018-07-25 18:03:03','<h2><p>Appliances & Lighting</p></h2>		\n		<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances’ energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.</p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Reducing Run Time</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Improving Efficiency</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor03\">Buying New Appliances</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor04\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor05\">Lighting</a>		\n			<h1>Reducing Run Time</h1>		\n		Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don’t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It’s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back\nwhen temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more—provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don’t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative\nhumidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\n			<h1>Improving Efficiency</h1>		\n		It’s also possible to improve the efficiency of some appliances. Efficiency can often be increased by simple maintenance or by choosing the proper settings when using appliances.\nRefrigeration The refrigerator is typically the biggest electricity user in the kitchen and is often the largest in the house. If your refrigerator is getting old, it’s probably worth replacing it with a new Energy Star model. New, efficient refrigerators use less than half the energy of standard models before 1993. If you are lucky enough to have a refrigerator that dates back to the 1970s or early 1980s and it still runs, take it\nto the recycle center. Even if it’s the spare in the basement or garage, the energy savings will pay\nfor a brand-new unit in just a few years. And buy the smallest, simplest fridge that will meet your\nneeds; large Energy Star models use more electricity than smaller ones; through-door ice and\nwater also use energy.\n To keep any refrigerator running right, ensure adequate air circulation around the unit. Keep it a few inches away from the wall, and don’t box it in with cabinets. It’s a good idea to vacuum the grill periodically, but there is no evidence that vacuuming dust off the coils inside actually saves electricity. Make sure the door seals are tight, keep the unit away from heat sources (don’t put it next\nto the stove or dishwasher) and check the temperature setting. The refrigerator compartments\nshould stay between 38°F and 42°F, and the freezer between 0°F and 5°F. If you have a power-saving switch, use it. Typically, the switch disables internal heaters that fight condensation; turn it off only if condensation occurs. Finally, keep refrigerators and freezers reasonably full; they are less efficient when they are nearly empty. Even more important, avoid the temptation to keep the old fridge in the garage\nor basement for overflow (or the odd six-pack). Buying a new, highly efficient refrigerator won’t save any energy if you keep the old one running!\nIt’s a common mistake to assume that if the fridge is only keeping a few items cold it’s not working very hard. A refrigerator uses most of its energy keeping the inside of the box cold—even if it’s completely empty. If you can’t do without it, unplug the spare until you need it to stock up for that holiday gathering. One more buying tip: A manual-defrost chest freezer uses far less energy than an upright, auto-defrost\nunit. Modern, airtight chest freezers rarely need defrosting, and are less likely to damage food\nwith freezer burn.\n			<h1>Buying Appliances</h1>		\n			<p>Laundry</p>		\n		Washing clothes uses energy in three ways: Washers and dryers have motors that move clothes and water; washers use hot water, which is heated with gas or electricity; and dryers heat clothes to dry them out. When you do a load of laundry, pay attention to the washer settings. Always use a cold-water rinse, and use a warm or cold wash for loads when you can. A warm/ cold cycle uses about half as much total energy as a hot/cold cycle. Also, pay attention to the size of the load; fill, but don’t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\n For dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don’t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather’s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line. \n			<p>Dishwasher</p>		\n		You can minimize dishwasher energy by paying attention to the settings. Don’t use the “Heavy” or “Pots and Pans” cycle unless you really need to. A fast scraping or rinsing of dishes (especially starchy stuff) does help the dishwasher do a better job, so you can use the “Light” setting. But always use cold water for pre-rinsing. Use a premium dishwasher detergent, and let the dishwasher do the job it’s designed for: cutting grease. Wait until the machine is full before using it: It uses the same amount of energy whether you wash one dish or thirty. Many new dishwashers have sensors that stop the machine as particulates in the water clear (indicating that the dishes are clean). If you don’t have to take the dishes out right away, you can run the machine with the “Air-Dry” setting (sometimes called “Energy Saver”).\nIt’s okay to use the dishwasher: In fact, research shows that even careful hand washing uses more hot water and soap than a modern dishwasher. And today’s very efficient dishwashers are reasonably priced—there are Energy Star–rated dishwashers at every point in the price spectrum.\nsize of the load; fill, but don’t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\nFor dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don’t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather’s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line.		\n			<h1>Smart Shopping for New Appliances</h1>		\n		<p>Minimum efficiency regulations for new appliances have increased over the years, so even the least-efficient new models typically use much less energy than appliances that are 10 or more years old.<br />In most cases, it’s not cost-effective to go out and buy new, energy-efficient products just to save energy. Two exceptions to this rule are older refrigerators and dehumidifiers. For other appliances, look for the most efficient products available when you do go shopping—and always choose an Energy Star–labeled appliance at a minimum. It’s worth some research in advance; even within the Energy Star labeling program, there can be a wide range of efficiency. For example, to get an Energy Star label, refrigerators<br />must save at least 20 percent over federal standards, but some models save over 50 percent. Also, minimum requirements vary with features: A side-by-side model with through-door ice can use almost 50 percent more than a top-freezer model without ice—even though both are Energy Star rated. Listings of efficiency levels by model number for most Energy Star products are available at www.energystar.gov/products.</p>		\n			<h1>Lighting</h1>		\n		There are two basic approaches to making the lights in your home more efficient: eliminate unnecessary usage and use the most efficient products available. Many of us heard the message “turn off lights when you’re not using them” while we were growing up. Of course, how much light you need is a matter of eyesight and personal taste. Turning off a light isn’t always a practical solution, except when you leave the\nroom—then there’s no excuse. One of the best ways to eliminate unnecessary light usage is with controls. Regularly used indoor lights can be put on timers or occupancy sensors so they aren’t left on for hours when no one is using them. Exterior walkway and security lighting can be put on a combination of\ntimers, motion sensors, or photocell controls to minimize their use while ensuring that they are\non whenever needed.\n			<p>LED Lighting</p>		\n		<p>LED lighting technology is developing rapidly. In just a few years, a number of good-quality LEDs have become available (though they are still expensive). The products will keep getting better, and prices will continue to drop, over the next few years at least. LEDs are fundamentally different than other light sources. An LED is a semiconductor—basically, a tiny computer chip—that generates light. LEDs have been around for decades in electronic equipment displays and status lights, but by nature a single LED generates a focused point-source of light in a single, saturated color such as red, yellow, or blue. Getting an LED to look like an incandescent bulb is a challenge; most manufacturers combine many LEDs of different colors to approximate warm, yellow-white light and to disperse the light in a useful pattern.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Appliances','','inherit','closed','closed','','2013-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 18:03:03','2018-07-25 18:03:03','',2013,'http://ev.ene.org/2013-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2114,4,'2018-07-25 18:50:10','2018-07-25 18:50:10','<h2><p>Appliances & Lighting</p></h2>		\n		<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances’ energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.</p><p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Reducing Run Time</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Improving Efficiency</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Lighting</a></p>		\n			<h1>Reducing Run Time</h1>		\n		Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don’t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It’s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back when temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more—provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don’t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative humidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\n			<h1>Improving efficiency</h1>		\n			<p>Refrigeration </p>		\n		The refrigerator is typically the biggest electricity user in the kitchen and is often the largest in the house. If your refrigerator is getting old, it’s probably worth replacing it with a new Energy Star model. New, efficient refrigerators use less than half the energy of standard models before 1993. If you are lucky enough to have a refrigerator that dates back to the 1970s or early 1980s and it still runs, take it to the recycle center. Even if it’s the spare in the basement or garage, the energy savings will pay for a brand-new unit in just a few years. And buy the smallest, simplest fridge that will meet your needs; large Energy Star models use more electricity than smaller ones; through-door ice and water also use energy.\nTo keep any refrigerator running right, ensure adequate air circulation around the unit. Keep it a few inches away from the wall, and don’t box it in with cabinets. It’s a good idea to vacuum the grill periodically, but there is no evidence that vacuuming dust off the coils inside actually saves electricity. Make sure the door seals are tight, keep the unit away from heat sources (don’t put it next to the stove or dishwasher) and check the temperature setting. The refrigerator compartments should stay between 38°F and 42°F, and the freezer between 0°F and 5°F. If you have a power-saving switch, use it. Typically, the switch disables internal heaters that fight condensation; turn it off only if condensation occurs. Finally, keep refrigerators and freezers reasonably full; they are less efficient when they are nearly empty. Even more important, avoid the temptation to keep the old fridge in the garage or basement for overflow (or the odd six-pack). Buying a new, highly efficient refrigerator won’t save any energy if you keep the old one running!\nIt’s a common mistake to assume that if the fridge is only keeping a few items cold it’s not working very hard. A refrigerator uses most of its energy keeping the inside of the box cold—even if it’s completely empty. If you can’t do without it, unplug the spare until you need it to stock up for that holiday gathering. One more buying tip: A manual-defrost chest freezer uses far less energy than an upright, auto-defrost unit. Modern, airtight chest freezers rarely need defrosting, and are less likely to damage food with freezer burn.\n			<p>Laundry</p>		\n		Washing clothes uses energy in three ways: Washers and dryers have motors that move clothes and water; washers use hot water, which is heated with gas or electricity; and dryers heat clothes to dry them out. When you do a load of laundry, pay attention to the washer settings. Always use a cold-water rinse, and use a warm or cold wash for loads when you can. A warm/ cold cycle uses about half as much total energy as a hot/cold cycle. Also, pay attention to the size of the load; fill, but don’t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\nFor dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don’t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather’s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line. \n			<p>Dishwasher</p>		\n		You can minimize dishwasher energy by paying attention to the settings. Don’t use the “Heavy” or “Pots and Pans” cycle unless you really need to. A fast scraping or rinsing of dishes (especially starchy stuff) does help the dishwasher do a better job, so you can use the “Light” setting. But always use cold water for pre-rinsing. Use a premium dishwasher detergent, and let the dishwasher do the job it’s designed for: cutting grease. Wait until the machine is full before using it: It uses the same amount of energy whether you wash one dish or thirty. Many new dishwashers have sensors that stop the machine as particulates in the water clear (indicating that the dishes are clean). If you don’t have to take the dishes out right away, you can run the machine with the “Air-Dry” setting (sometimes called “Energy Saver”).\nIt’s okay to use the dishwasher: In fact, research shows that even careful hand washing uses more hot water and soap than a modern dishwasher. And today’s very efficient dishwashers are reasonably priced—there are Energy Star–rated dishwashers at every point in the price spectrum.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Appliances_Pic1.png\" title=\"Appliances_Pic1\" alt=\"Appliances_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>Front-loading clothes washers use less water and less energy and are easier on your clothes.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h1>Smart shopping for new appliances</h1>		\n		Minimum efficiency regulations for new appliances have increased over the years, so even the least-efficient new models typically use much less energy than appliances that are 10 or more years old. In most cases, it’s not cost-effective to go out and buy new, energy-efficient products just to save energy. Two exceptions to this rule are older refrigerators and dehumidifiers. For other appliances, look for the most efficient products available when you do go shopping—and always choose an Energy Star–labeled appliance at a minimum. It’s worth some research in advance; even within the Energy Star labeling program, there can be a wide range of efficiency. For example, to get an Energy Star label, refrigerators must save at least 20 percent over federal standards, but some models save over 50 percent. Also, minimum requirements vary with features: A side-by-side model with through-door ice can use almost 50 percent more than a top-freezer model without ice—even though both are Energy Star rated. Listings of efficiency levels by model number for most Energy Star products are available at www.energystar.gov/products.		\n			<h1>Lighting</h1>		\n		There are two basic approaches to making the lights in your home more efficient: eliminate unnecessary usage and use the most efficient products available. Many of us heard the message “turn off lights when you’re not using them” while we were growing up. Of course, how much light you need is a matter of eyesight and personal taste. Turning off a light isn’t always a practical solution, except when you leave the room—then there’s no excuse. One of the best ways to eliminate unnecessary light usage is with controls. Regularly used indoor lights can be put on timers or occupancy sensors so they aren’t left on for hours when no one is using them. Exterior walkway and security lighting can be put on a combination of timers, motion sensors, or photocell controls to minimize their use while ensuring that they are on whenever needed.		\n			<p>LED Lighting</p>		\n		<p>LED lighting technology is developing rapidly. In just a few years, a number of good-quality LEDs have become available (though they are still expensive). The products will keep getting better, and prices will continue to drop, over the next few years at least. LEDs are fundamentally different than other light sources. An LED is a semiconductor—basically, a tiny computer chip—that generates light. LEDs have been around for decades in electronic equipment displays and status lights, but by nature a single LED generates a focused point-source of light in a single, saturated color such as red, yellow, or blue. Getting an LED to look like an incandescent bulb is a challenge; most manufacturers combine many LEDs of different colors to approximate warm, yellow-white light and to disperse the light in a useful pattern.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Appliances','','inherit','closed','closed','','2013-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 18:50:10','2018-07-25 18:50:10','',2013,'http://ev.ene.org/2013-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2115,4,'2018-07-25 18:52:19','2018-07-25 18:52:19','<h2><p>Appliances & Lighting</p></h2>		\n		<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances’ energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.</p><p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Reducing Run Time</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Improving Efficiency</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Lighting</a></p>		\n			<h1>Reducing Run Time</h1>		\n		Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don’t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It’s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back when temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more—provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don’t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative humidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\n			<h1>Improving efficiency</h1>		\n		<p>It’s also possible to improve the efficiency of some appliances. Efficiency can often be increased by simple maintenance or by choosing the proper settings when using appliances.</p>		\n			<p>Refrigeration </p>		\n		The refrigerator is typically the biggest electricity user in the kitchen and is often the largest in the house. If your refrigerator is getting old, it’s probably worth replacing it with a new Energy Star model. New, efficient refrigerators use less than half the energy of standard models before 1993. If you are lucky enough to have a refrigerator that dates back to the 1970s or early 1980s and it still runs, take it to the recycle center. Even if it’s the spare in the basement or garage, the energy savings will pay for a brand-new unit in just a few years. And buy the smallest, simplest fridge that will meet your needs; large Energy Star models use more electricity than smaller ones; through-door ice and water also use energy.\nTo keep any refrigerator running right, ensure adequate air circulation around the unit. Keep it a few inches away from the wall, and don’t box it in with cabinets. It’s a good idea to vacuum the grill periodically, but there is no evidence that vacuuming dust off the coils inside actually saves electricity. Make sure the door seals are tight, keep the unit away from heat sources (don’t put it next to the stove or dishwasher) and check the temperature setting. The refrigerator compartments should stay between 38°F and 42°F, and the freezer between 0°F and 5°F. If you have a power-saving switch, use it. Typically, the switch disables internal heaters that fight condensation; turn it off only if condensation occurs. Finally, keep refrigerators and freezers reasonably full; they are less efficient when they are nearly empty. Even more important, avoid the temptation to keep the old fridge in the garage or basement for overflow (or the odd six-pack). Buying a new, highly efficient refrigerator won’t save any energy if you keep the old one running!\nIt’s a common mistake to assume that if the fridge is only keeping a few items cold it’s not working very hard. A refrigerator uses most of its energy keeping the inside of the box cold—even if it’s completely empty. If you can’t do without it, unplug the spare until you need it to stock up for that holiday gathering. One more buying tip: A manual-defrost chest freezer uses far less energy than an upright, auto-defrost unit. Modern, airtight chest freezers rarely need defrosting, and are less likely to damage food with freezer burn.\n			<p>Laundry</p>		\n		Washing clothes uses energy in three ways: Washers and dryers have motors that move clothes and water; washers use hot water, which is heated with gas or electricity; and dryers heat clothes to dry them out. When you do a load of laundry, pay attention to the washer settings. Always use a cold-water rinse, and use a warm or cold wash for loads when you can. A warm/ cold cycle uses about half as much total energy as a hot/cold cycle. Also, pay attention to the size of the load; fill, but don’t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\nFor dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don’t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather’s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line. \n			<p>Dishwasher</p>		\n		You can minimize dishwasher energy by paying attention to the settings. Don’t use the “Heavy” or “Pots and Pans” cycle unless you really need to. A fast scraping or rinsing of dishes (especially starchy stuff) does help the dishwasher do a better job, so you can use the “Light” setting. But always use cold water for pre-rinsing. Use a premium dishwasher detergent, and let the dishwasher do the job it’s designed for: cutting grease. Wait until the machine is full before using it: It uses the same amount of energy whether you wash one dish or thirty. Many new dishwashers have sensors that stop the machine as particulates in the water clear (indicating that the dishes are clean). If you don’t have to take the dishes out right away, you can run the machine with the “Air-Dry” setting (sometimes called “Energy Saver”).\nIt’s okay to use the dishwasher: In fact, research shows that even careful hand washing uses more hot water and soap than a modern dishwasher. And today’s very efficient dishwashers are reasonably priced—there are Energy Star–rated dishwashers at every point in the price spectrum.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Appliances_Pic1.png\" title=\"Appliances_Pic1\" alt=\"Appliances_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>Front-loading clothes washers use less water and less energy and are easier on your clothes.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h1>Smart shopping for new appliances</h1>		\n		Minimum efficiency regulations for new appliances have increased over the years, so even the least-efficient new models typically use much less energy than appliances that are 10 or more years old. In most cases, it’s not cost-effective to go out and buy new, energy-efficient products just to save energy. Two exceptions to this rule are older refrigerators and dehumidifiers. For other appliances, look for the most efficient products available when you do go shopping—and always choose an Energy Star–labeled appliance at a minimum. It’s worth some research in advance; even within the Energy Star labeling program, there can be a wide range of efficiency. For example, to get an Energy Star label, refrigerators must save at least 20 percent over federal standards, but some models save over 50 percent. Also, minimum requirements vary with features: A side-by-side model with through-door ice can use almost 50 percent more than a top-freezer model without ice—even though both are Energy Star rated. Listings of efficiency levels by model number for most Energy Star products are available at www.energystar.gov/products.		\n			<h1>Lighting</h1>		\n		There are two basic approaches to making the lights in your home more efficient: eliminate unnecessary usage and use the most efficient products available. Many of us heard the message “turn off lights when you’re not using them” while we were growing up. Of course, how much light you need is a matter of eyesight and personal taste. Turning off a light isn’t always a practical solution, except when you leave the room—then there’s no excuse. One of the best ways to eliminate unnecessary light usage is with controls. Regularly used indoor lights can be put on timers or occupancy sensors so they aren’t left on for hours when no one is using them. Exterior walkway and security lighting can be put on a combination of timers, motion sensors, or photocell controls to minimize their use while ensuring that they are on whenever needed.		\n			<p>LED Lighting</p>		\n		<p>LED lighting technology is developing rapidly. In just a few years, a number of good-quality LEDs have become available (though they are still expensive). The products will keep getting better, and prices will continue to drop, over the next few years at least. LEDs are fundamentally different than other light sources. An LED is a semiconductor—basically, a tiny computer chip—that generates light. LEDs have been around for decades in electronic equipment displays and status lights, but by nature a single LED generates a focused point-source of light in a single, saturated color such as red, yellow, or blue. Getting an LED to look like an incandescent bulb is a challenge; most manufacturers combine many LEDs of different colors to approximate warm, yellow-white light and to disperse the light in a useful pattern.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Appliances','','inherit','closed','closed','','2013-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 18:52:19','2018-07-25 18:52:19','',2013,'http://ev.ene.org/2013-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2116,4,'2018-07-25 18:55:50','2018-07-25 18:55:50','Appliances &amp; Lighting\r\n\r\nYou can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances’ energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor01\">Reducing Run Time</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Improving Efficiency</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor03\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor04\">Lighting</a>\r\n<h1>Reducing Run Time</h1>\r\nReducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don’t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It’s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back when temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more—provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don’t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative humidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\r\n<h1>Improving efficiency</h1>\r\nIt’s also possible to improve the efficiency of some appliances. Efficiency can often be increased by simple maintenance or by choosing the proper settings when using appliances.\r\n\r\nRefrigeration\r\n\r\nThe refrigerator is typically the biggest electricity user in the kitchen and is often the largest in the house. If your refrigerator is getting old, it’s probably worth replacing it with a new Energy Star model. New, efficient refrigerators use less than half the energy of standard models before 1993. If you are lucky enough to have a refrigerator that dates back to the 1970s or early 1980s and it still runs, take it to the recycle center. Even if it’s the spare in the basement or garage, the energy savings will pay for a brand-new unit in just a few years. And buy the smallest, simplest fridge that will meet your needs; large Energy Star models use more electricity than smaller ones; through-door ice and water also use energy.\r\nTo keep any refrigerator running right, ensure adequate air circulation around the unit. Keep it a few inches away from the wall, and don’t box it in with cabinets. It’s a good idea to vacuum the grill periodically, but there is no evidence that vacuuming dust off the coils inside actually saves electricity. Make sure the door seals are tight, keep the unit away from heat sources (don’t put it next to the stove or dishwasher) and check the temperature setting. The refrigerator compartments should stay between 38°F and 42°F, and the freezer between 0°F and 5°F. If you have a power-saving switch, use it. Typically, the switch disables internal heaters that fight condensation; turn it off only if condensation occurs. Finally, keep refrigerators and freezers reasonably full; they are less efficient when they are nearly empty. Even more important, avoid the temptation to keep the old fridge in the garage or basement for overflow (or the odd six-pack). Buying a new, highly efficient refrigerator won’t save any energy if you keep the old one running!\r\nIt’s a common mistake to assume that if the fridge is only keeping a few items cold it’s not working very hard. A refrigerator uses most of its energy keeping the inside of the box cold—even if it’s completely empty. If you can’t do without it, unplug the spare until you need it to stock up for that holiday gathering. One more buying tip: A manual-defrost chest freezer uses far less energy than an upright, auto-defrost unit. Modern, airtight chest freezers rarely need defrosting, and are less likely to damage food with freezer burn.\r\n\r\nLaundry\r\n\r\nWashing clothes uses energy in three ways: Washers and dryers have motors that move clothes and water; washers use hot water, which is heated with gas or electricity; and dryers heat clothes to dry them out. When you do a load of laundry, pay attention to the washer settings. Always use a cold-water rinse, and use a warm or cold wash for loads when you can. A warm/ cold cycle uses about half as much total energy as a hot/cold cycle. Also, pay attention to the size of the load; fill, but don’t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\r\nFor dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don’t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather’s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line.\r\n\r\nDishwasher\r\n\r\nYou can minimize dishwasher energy by paying attention to the settings. Don’t use the “Heavy” or “Pots and Pans” cycle unless you really need to. A fast scraping or rinsing of dishes (especially starchy stuff) does help the dishwasher do a better job, so you can use the “Light” setting. But always use cold water for pre-rinsing. Use a premium dishwasher detergent, and let the dishwasher do the job it’s designed for: cutting grease. Wait until the machine is full before using it: It uses the same amount of energy whether you wash one dish or thirty. Many new dishwashers have sensors that stop the machine as particulates in the water clear (indicating that the dishes are clean). If you don’t have to take the dishes out right away, you can run the machine with the “Air-Dry” setting (sometimes called “Energy Saver”).\r\nIt’s okay to use the dishwasher: In fact, research shows that even careful hand washing uses more hot water and soap than a modern dishwasher. And today’s very efficient dishwashers are reasonably priced—there are Energy Star–rated dishwashers at every point in the price spectrum.\r\n<figure><img title=\"Appliances_Pic1\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Appliances_Pic1.png\" alt=\"Appliances_Pic1\" /><figcaption>Front-loading clothes washers use less water and less energy and are easier on your clothes.</figcaption></figure>\r\n<h1>Smart shopping for new appliances</h1>\r\nMinimum efficiency regulations for new appliances have increased over the years, so even the least-efficient new models typically use much less energy than appliances that are 10 or more years old. In most cases, it’s not cost-effective to go out and buy new, energy-efficient products just to save energy. Two exceptions to this rule are older refrigerators and dehumidifiers. For other appliances, look for the most efficient products available when you do go shopping—and always choose an Energy Star–labeled appliance at a minimum. It’s worth some research in advance; even within the Energy Star labeling program, there can be a wide range of efficiency. For example, to get an Energy Star label, refrigerators must save at least 20 percent over federal standards, but some models save over 50 percent. Also, minimum requirements vary with features: A side-by-side model with through-door ice can use almost 50 percent more than a top-freezer model without ice—even though both are Energy Star rated. Listings of efficiency levels by model number for most Energy Star products are available at www.energystar.gov/products.\r\n<h1>Lighting</h1>\r\nThere are two basic approaches to making the lights in your home more efficient: eliminate unnecessary usage and use the most efficient products available. Many of us heard the message “turn off lights when you’re not using them” while we were growing up. Of course, how much light you need is a matter of eyesight and personal taste. Turning off a light isn’t always a practical solution, except when you leave the room—then there’s no excuse. One of the best ways to eliminate unnecessary light usage is with controls. Regularly used indoor lights can be put on timers or occupancy sensors so they aren’t left on for hours when no one is using them. Exterior walkway and security lighting can be put on a combination of timers, motion sensors, or photocell controls to minimize their use while ensuring that they are on whenever needed.\r\n\r\nLED Lighting\r\n\r\nLED lighting technology is developing rapidly. In just a few years, a number of good-quality LEDs have become available (though they are still expensive). The products will keep getting better, and prices will continue to drop, over the next few years at least. LEDs are fundamentally different than other light sources. An LED is a semiconductor—basically, a tiny computer chip—that generates light. LEDs have been around for decades in electronic equipment displays and status lights, but by nature a single LED generates a focused point-source of light in a single, saturated color such as red, yellow, or blue. Getting an LED to look like an incandescent bulb is a challenge; most manufacturers combine many LEDs of different colors to approximate warm, yellow-white light and to disperse the light in a useful pattern.\r\n<h4>Energy New England</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li>100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 Foxborough, MA 02035</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-1200</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-0222</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">\r\nsolutions@ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ene.org/\">\r\nwww.ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>Website</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\"> Home\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\"> Energy Assessment\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\"> Recommendations\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\"> Town We Serve\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\"> Home Advisor\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"#\"> Shop\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\"> Contact\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>social media</h4>\r\n<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\r\nLinkedin\r\n</a>','Appliances & Lighting','','inherit','closed','closed','','2013-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 18:55:50','2018-07-25 18:55:50','',2013,'http://ev.ene.org/2013-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2117,4,'2018-07-25 18:59:59','2018-07-25 18:59:59','<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>','footer - website','','inherit','closed','closed','','1056-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 18:59:59','2018-07-25 18:59:59','',1056,'http://ev.ene.org/1056-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2118,4,'2018-07-25 19:00:00','2018-07-25 19:00:00','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">Understand common sources of energy waste in your home.</p>		\n		<p>Here in Massachusetts and Rhode Island, the winters are cold and the summers are hot. All homes waste energy, increasing utility bills and reducing comfort. We want to help you make the most of your energy investment in your home. ENE has partnered with energy efficiency expert and author, Bruce Harley, to provide you with advice from his book, <u>Insulate and Weatherize</u>. Learn about the many possible sources of energy loss in your home, how to save on your energy bills, and be more energy efficient. Whether you have had a recent Home Energy Assessment and are reviewing the recommendations from the Snugg Pro™ report, or are planning a home improvement project, this section contains information to help you achieve your energy goals.</p>		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n		<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Cut Your Energy Bills</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase at amazon\n					</a>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/build-like-a-pro-insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-070649.html#collateral-tabs\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS','','inherit','closed','closed','','16-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 19:00:00','2018-07-25 19:00:00','',16,'http://ev.ene.org/16-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2122,4,'2018-07-25 20:01:21','2018-07-25 20:01:21','<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>','footer - website','','inherit','closed','closed','','1056-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 20:01:21','2018-07-25 20:01:21','',1056,'http://ev.ene.org/1056-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2195,2,'2018-08-07 19:33:28','2018-08-07 19:33:28',' ','','','publish','closed','closed','','2195','','','2019-05-27 12:18:16','2019-05-27 12:18:16','',20,'http://ev.ene.org/?p=2195',16,'nav_menu_item','',0),(2196,2,'2018-08-07 19:33:28','2018-08-07 19:33:28',' ','','','publish','closed','closed','','2196','','','2019-05-27 12:18:16','2019-05-27 12:18:16','',20,'http://ev.ene.org/?p=2196',14,'nav_menu_item','',0),(2197,2,'2018-08-07 19:33:28','2018-08-07 19:33:28',' ','','','publish','closed','closed','','2197','','','2019-05-27 12:18:16','2019-05-27 12:18:16','',20,'http://ev.ene.org/?p=2197',15,'nav_menu_item','',0),(2205,2,'2018-08-08 01:25:31','2018-08-08 01:25:31','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">Understand common sources of energy waste in your home.</p>		\n		<p>Here in Massachusetts and Rhode Island, the winters are cold and the summers are hot. All homes waste energy, increasing utility bills and reducing comfort. We want to help you make the most of your energy investment in your home. ENE has partnered with energy efficiency expert and author, Bruce Harley, to provide you with advice from his book, <u>Insulate and Weatherize</u>. Learn about the many possible sources of energy loss in your home, how to save on your energy bills, and be more energy efficient. Whether you have had a recent Home Energy Assessment and are reviewing the recommendations from the Snugg Pro™ report, or are planning a home improvement project, this section contains information to help you achieve your energy goals.</p>		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n		<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Cut Your Energy Bills</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/home-improvement/insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-071377.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS','','inherit','closed','closed','','16-revision-v1','','','2018-08-08 01:25:31','2018-08-08 01:25:31','',16,'http://ev.ene.org/16-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2207,2,'2018-08-08 01:38:28','2018-08-08 01:38:28','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">Understand common sources of energy waste in your home.</p>		\n		<p>Here in Massachusetts and Rhode Island, the winters are cold and the summers are hot. All homes waste energy, increasing utility bills and reducing comfort. We want to help you make the most of your energy investment in your home. ENE has partnered with energy efficiency expert and author, Bruce Harley, to provide you with advice from his book, <u>Insulate and Weatherize</u>. Learn about the many possible sources of energy loss in your home, how to save on your energy bills, and be more energy efficient. Whether you have had a recent Home Energy Assessment and are reviewing the recommendations from the Snugg Pro™ report, or are planning a home improvement project, this section contains information to help you achieve your energy goals.</p>		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n		<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Cut Your Energy Bills</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/home-improvement/insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-071377.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS','','inherit','closed','closed','','16-revision-v1','','','2018-08-08 01:38:28','2018-08-08 01:38:28','',16,'http://ev.ene.org/16-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2208,2,'2018-08-08 01:44:19','2018-08-08 01:44:19','<h2>Learn to make the most of your energy investment.</h2>		\n		Schedule your home energy assessment today.		\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" role=\"button\">\n						GET STARTED\n					</a>\n			<h2>Let us help you navigate your energy future.</h2>		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT</a></h3>		\n		Schedule a home energy assessment with one of our experienced advisors. You will  get expert advice and learn more about the energy efficiency improvements you can make to your home. Understand the common sources of energy waste in your home that have a negative impact on both the comfort of your living space and your wallet. 		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">RECOMMENDATIONS</a></h3>		\n		Want to learn more about recommendations made in your Home Energy Assessment? Your path to energy efficiency starts here. Find out what options you have and where to begin the process of making your home more efficient.		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">YOUR LOCAL UTILITY</a></h3>		\n		Energy New England is proud to provide Energy Efficiency services for 20 municipal light plants in Massachusetts and Rhode Island. Many local utilities offer rebates on Energy Star<sup>®</sup> appliances, thermostats and weatherization. Discover the incentives available meant to assist you in your energy efficiency upgrades. In addition, see if your local utility offers other savings programs that may be right for you.		\n			<h4>Our Partners</h4>		\n			<h5>Helping to ensure an energy efficient future. </h5>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','HOME','','inherit','closed','closed','','10-revision-v1','','','2018-08-08 01:44:19','2018-08-08 01:44:19','',10,'http://ev.ene.org/10-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2209,2,'2018-08-08 01:59:02','2018-08-08 01:59:02','<h2>Contact</h2>		\n		Thank you for visiting the Energy Efficiency website for Energy New England.		\n		<p>If you would like to learn more about our services or have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us. You may reach us by phone, email, fax, or by filling out the form provided.</p><p>Energy New England</p>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										FAX: 508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										<u>solutions@ene.org</u>\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										<u>www.ene.org</u>\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n		<p>Office Hours: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM Mon - Fri<br /><br /></p>		\n			<h2>About ENE</h2>		\n		<p>Energy New England (ENE) is the largest wholesale risk management and energy trading organization serving the needs of municipal utilities in the northeast. We currently manage the power supplies of over twenty municipal electric systems, and work with numerous businesses, residents, and utilities to help promote the principles of conservation, efficiency, and environmental stewardship. The ENE service portfolio encompasses the 4 C’s of sustainability: Conservation, Carbon Mitigation, Commodity Services, and Clean Technologies.</p><p>ENE was founded in 1998 to enhance the competitive position of public power entities in response to deregulation and to attain operating efficiencies in energy risk and retail account management. We are a municipal light plant cooperative owned by light departments of Braintree, Taunton, Concord, Hingham, and Wellesley, Massachusetts.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','CONTACT','','inherit','closed','closed','','12-revision-v1','','','2018-08-08 01:59:02','2018-08-08 01:59:02','',12,'http://ev.ene.org/12-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2218,2,'2018-08-09 23:13:59','2018-08-09 23:13:59','<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>','footer - phone #s','','inherit','closed','closed','','1992-revision-v1','','','2018-08-09 23:13:59','2018-08-09 23:13:59','',1992,'http://ev.ene.org/1992-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2219,2,'2018-08-09 23:14:00','2018-08-09 23:14:00','<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','footer - social media','','inherit','closed','closed','','2001-revision-v1','','','2018-08-09 23:14:00','2018-08-09 23:14:00','',2001,'http://ev.ene.org/2001-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2220,2,'2018-08-09 23:14:00','2018-08-09 23:14:00','<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','footer - social media','','inherit','closed','closed','','2001-revision-v1','','','2018-08-09 23:14:00','2018-08-09 23:14:00','',2001,'http://ev.ene.org/2001-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2221,2,'2018-08-09 23:14:00','2018-08-09 23:14:00','<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','footer - social media','','inherit','closed','closed','','2001-revision-v1','','','2018-08-09 23:14:00','2018-08-09 23:14:00','',2001,'http://ev.ene.org/2001-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2222,2,'2018-08-09 23:14:01','2018-08-09 23:14:01','<h2>Learn to make the most of your energy investment.</h2>		\n		Schedule your home energy assessment today.		\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" role=\"button\">\n						GET STARTED\n					</a>\n			<h2>Let us help you navigate your energy future.</h2>		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT</a></h3>		\n		Schedule a home energy assessment with one of our experienced advisors. You will  get expert advice and learn more about the energy efficiency improvements you can make to your home. Understand the common sources of energy waste in your home that have a negative impact on both the comfort of your living space and your wallet. 		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">RECOMMENDATIONS</a></h3>		\n		Want to learn more about recommendations made in your Home Energy Assessment? Your path to energy efficiency starts here. Find out what options you have and where to begin the process of making your home more efficient.		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">YOUR LOCAL UTILITY</a></h3>		\n		Energy New England is proud to provide Energy Efficiency services for 20 municipal light plants in Massachusetts and Rhode Island. Many local utilities offer rebates on Energy Star<sup>®</sup> appliances, thermostats and weatherization. Discover the incentives available meant to assist you in your energy efficiency upgrades. In addition, see if your local utility offers other savings programs that may be right for you.		\n			<h4>Our Partners</h4>		\n			<h5>Helping to ensure an energy efficient future. </h5>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','HOME','','inherit','closed','closed','','10-revision-v1','','','2018-08-09 23:14:01','2018-08-09 23:14:01','',10,'http://ev.ene.org/10-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2223,2,'2018-08-09 23:14:18','2018-08-09 23:14:18','<h2>Learn to make the most of your energy investment.</h2>		\n		Schedule your home energy assessment today.		\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" role=\"button\">\n						GET STARTED\n					</a>\n			<h2>Let us help you navigate your energy future.</h2>		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT</a></h3>		\n		Schedule a home energy assessment with one of our experienced advisors. You will  get expert advice and learn more about the energy efficiency improvements you can make to your home. Understand the common sources of energy waste in your home that have a negative impact on both the comfort of your living space and your wallet. 		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">RECOMMENDATIONS</a></h3>		\n		Want to learn more about recommendations made in your Home Energy Assessment? Your path to energy efficiency starts here. Find out what options you have and where to begin the process of making your home more efficient.		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">YOUR LOCAL UTILITY</a></h3>		\n		Energy New England is proud to provide Energy Efficiency services for 20 municipal light plants in Massachusetts and Rhode Island. Many local utilities offer rebates on Energy Star<sup>®</sup> appliances, thermostats and weatherization. Discover the incentives available meant to assist you in your energy efficiency upgrades. In addition, see if your local utility offers other savings programs that may be right for you.		\n			<h4>Our Partners</h4>		\n			<h5>Helping to ensure an energy efficient future. </h5>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','HOME','','inherit','closed','closed','','10-revision-v1','','','2018-08-09 23:14:18','2018-08-09 23:14:18','',10,'http://ev.ene.org/10-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2224,2,'2018-08-09 23:18:19','2018-08-09 23:18:19','<h2>Contact</h2>		\n		Thank you for visiting the Energy Efficiency website for Energy New England.		\n		<p>If you would like to learn more about our services or have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us. You may reach us by phone, email, fax, or by filling out the form provided.</p><p>Energy New England</p>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										FAX: 508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										<u>solutions@ene.org</u>\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										<u>www.ene.org</u>\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n		<p>Office Hours: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM Mon - Fri<br /><br /></p>		\n			<h2>About ENE</h2>		\n		<p>Energy New England (ENE) is the largest wholesale risk management and energy trading organization serving the needs of municipal utilities in the northeast. We currently manage the power supplies of over twenty municipal electric systems, and work with numerous businesses, residents, and utilities to help promote the principles of conservation, efficiency, and environmental stewardship. The ENE service portfolio encompasses the 4 C’s of sustainability: Conservation, Carbon Mitigation, Commodity Services, and Clean Technologies.</p><p>ENE was founded in 1998 to enhance the competitive position of public power entities in response to deregulation and to attain operating efficiencies in energy risk and retail account management. We are a municipal light plant cooperative owned by light departments of Braintree, Taunton, Concord, Hingham, and Wellesley, Massachusetts.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','CONTACT','','inherit','closed','closed','','12-revision-v1','','','2018-08-09 23:18:19','2018-08-09 23:18:19','',12,'http://ev.ene.org/12-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2225,2,'2018-08-09 23:18:35','2018-08-09 23:18:35','<h2>Contact</h2>		\n		Thank you for visiting the Energy Efficiency website for Energy New England.		\n		<p>If you would like to learn more about our services or have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us. You may reach us by phone, email, fax, or by filling out the form provided.</p><p>Energy New England</p>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										FAX: 508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										<u>solutions@ene.org</u>\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										<u>www.ene.org</u>\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n		<p>Office Hours: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM Mon - Fri<br /><br /></p>		\n			<h2>About ENE</h2>		\n		<p>Energy New England (ENE) is the largest wholesale risk management and energy trading organization serving the needs of municipal utilities in the northeast. We currently manage the power supplies of over twenty municipal electric systems, and work with numerous businesses, residents, and utilities to help promote the principles of conservation, efficiency, and environmental stewardship. The ENE service portfolio encompasses the 4 C’s of sustainability: Conservation, Carbon Mitigation, Commodity Services, and Clean Technologies.</p><p>ENE was founded in 1998 to enhance the competitive position of public power entities in response to deregulation and to attain operating efficiencies in energy risk and retail account management. We are a municipal light plant cooperative owned by light departments of Braintree, Taunton, Concord, Hingham, and Wellesley, Massachusetts.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','CONTACT','','inherit','closed','closed','','12-revision-v1','','','2018-08-09 23:18:35','2018-08-09 23:18:35','',12,'http://ev.ene.org/12-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2227,2,'2018-08-09 23:36:12','2018-08-09 23:36:12','<h2>Contact</h2>		\n		Thank you for visiting the Energy Efficiency website for Energy New England.		\n		<p>If you would like to learn more about our services or have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us. You may reach us by phone, email, fax, or by filling out the form provided.</p><p>Energy New England</p>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										FAX: 508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										<u>solutions@ene.org</u>\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										<u>www.ene.org</u>\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n		<p>Office Hours: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM Mon - Fri<br /><br /></p>		\n			<h2>About ENE</h2>		\n		<p>Energy New England (ENE) is the largest wholesale risk management and energy trading organization serving the needs of municipal utilities in the northeast. We currently manage the power supplies of over twenty municipal electric systems, and work with numerous businesses, residents, and utilities to help promote the principles of conservation, efficiency, and environmental stewardship. The ENE service portfolio encompasses the 4 C’s of sustainability: Conservation, Carbon Mitigation, Commodity Services, and Clean Technologies.</p><p>ENE was founded in 1998 to enhance the competitive position of public power entities in response to deregulation and to attain operating efficiencies in energy risk and retail account management. We are a municipal light plant cooperative owned by light departments of Braintree, Taunton, Concord, Hingham, and Wellesley, Massachusetts.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','CONTACT','','inherit','closed','closed','','12-revision-v1','','','2018-08-09 23:36:12','2018-08-09 23:36:12','',12,'http://ev.ene.org/12-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2234,2,'2018-08-10 00:54:46','2018-08-10 00:54:46','<h2>Home Energy Assessment</h2>		\n		<p>Uncover savings by having a <strong>free</strong> assessment of your home\'s energy use.</p>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.energynewengland.com/CMS_Intake.aspx\" role=\"button\">\n						SIGN UP NOW\n					</a>\n		ENE provides conservation services for the residential customers of our partnering utilities. Our highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.<p>You’ll receive a report that outlines the best steps to take in order to improve your home’s energy usage along with how much each step could potentially save you on energy costs in the future. Complimentary energy saving materials, such as LED light bulbs and efficient power strips, will be provided during the course of the assessment as well.</p><p>Participating residential customers can request a Home Energy Assessment, or receive information about rebates and incentives offered by their utility by calling ENE’s energy hotline.</p>RESIDENTIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT<p>The Energy Advisor will evaluate a broad range of energy saving opportunities in the home, including:</p>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Insulation\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Appliances\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Heating/cooling Windows and door weather-stripping \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Water heating Efficient lighting \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Window and door replacement\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Preparing for Your Energy Assessment</h2>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Make a list of concerns you have about your home, such as drafty rooms, old heating equipment, or high bills.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Also, please provide 12 Months of Heating Fuel usage (Oil, Propane, Gas, Wood, etc.) information to the Energy Advisor. If you do not have fuel usage information, please make our Advisor aware of this at the time of your assessment.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										If you have pets, kindly secure them. Please ensure full access to the home with clear access to the attic and basement, and if available a stable ladder.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Should you have any questions or concerns, please call the Energy New England Hotline at: <b>888-772-4242</b> or if you prefer email, <u>solutions@ene.org</u>.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your appointment today.​</h2>		\n		<p>For more information about how Energy New England can help you, please call <strong>508-698-1208 </strong>or email us at <strong>solutions@ene.org</strong>.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','ENERGY ASSESSMENT','','inherit','closed','closed','','14-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 00:54:46','2018-08-10 00:54:46','',14,'http://ev.ene.org/14-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2235,2,'2018-08-10 01:01:50','2018-08-10 01:01:50','<h2>Contact</h2>		\n		Thank you for visiting the Energy Efficiency website for Energy New England.		\n		<p>If you would like to learn more about our services or have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us. You may reach us by phone, email, fax, or by filling out the form provided.</p><p>Energy New England</p>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										FAX: 508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										<u>solutions@ene.org</u>\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										<u>www.ene.org</u>\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n		<p>Office Hours: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM Mon - Fri<br /><br /></p>		\n			<h2>About ENE</h2>		\n		<p>Energy New England (ENE) is the largest wholesale risk management and energy trading organization serving the needs of municipal utilities in the northeast. We currently manage the power supplies of over twenty municipal electric systems, and work with numerous businesses, residents, and utilities to help promote the principles of conservation, efficiency, and environmental stewardship. The ENE service portfolio encompasses the 4 C’s of sustainability: Conservation, Carbon Mitigation, Commodity Services, and Clean Technologies.</p><p>ENE was founded in 1998 to enhance the competitive position of public power entities in response to deregulation and to attain operating efficiencies in energy risk and retail account management. We are a municipal light plant cooperative owned by light departments of Braintree, Taunton, Concord, Hingham, and Wellesley, Massachusetts.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','CONTACT','','inherit','closed','closed','','12-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 01:01:50','2018-08-10 01:01:50','',12,'http://ev.ene.org/12-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2242,2,'2018-08-10 01:07:59','2018-08-10 01:07:59','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">Understand common sources of energy waste in your home.</p>		\n		<p>Here in Massachusetts and Rhode Island, the winters are cold and the summers are hot. All homes waste energy, increasing utility bills and reducing comfort. We want to help you make the most of your energy investment in your home. ENE has partnered with energy efficiency expert and author, Bruce Harley, to provide you with advice from his book, <u>Insulate and Weatherize</u>. Learn about the many possible sources of energy loss in your home, how to save on your energy bills, and be more energy efficient. Whether you have had a recent Home Energy Assessment and are reviewing the recommendations from the Snugg Pro™ report, or are planning a home improvement project, this section contains information to help you achieve your energy goals.</p>		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n		<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Cut Your Energy Bills</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/home-improvement/insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-071377.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS','','inherit','closed','closed','','16-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 01:07:59','2018-08-10 01:07:59','',16,'http://ev.ene.org/16-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2246,2,'2018-08-10 01:12:46','2018-08-10 01:12:46','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">Understand common sources of energy waste in your home.</p>		\n		<p>Here in Massachusetts and Rhode Island, the winters are cold and the summers are hot. All homes waste energy, increasing utility bills and reducing comfort. We want to help you make the most of your energy investment in your home. ENE has partnered with energy efficiency expert and author, Bruce Harley, to provide you with advice from his book, <u>Insulate and Weatherize</u>. Learn about the many possible sources of energy loss in your home, how to save on your energy bills, and be more energy efficient. Whether you have had a recent Home Energy Assessment and are reviewing the recommendations from the Snugg Pro™ report, or are planning a home improvement project, this section contains information to help you achieve your energy goals.</p>		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n		<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Cut Your Energy Bills</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/home-improvement/insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-071377.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS','','inherit','closed','closed','','16-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 01:12:46','2018-08-10 01:12:46','',16,'http://ev.ene.org/16-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2247,2,'2018-08-10 01:13:03','2018-08-10 01:13:03','<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">Understand common sources of energy waste in your home.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n		<p>Here in Massachusetts and Rhode Island, the winters are cold and the summers are hot. All homes waste energy, increasing utility bills and reducing comfort. We want to help you make the most of your energy investment in your home. ENE has partnered with energy efficiency expert and author, Bruce Harley, to provide you with advice from his book, <u>Insulate and Weatherize</u>. Learn about the many possible sources of energy loss in your home, how to save on your energy bills, and be more energy efficient. Whether you have had a recent Home Energy Assessment and are reviewing the recommendations from the Snugg Pro™ report, or are planning a home improvement project, this section contains information to help you achieve your energy goals.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n		<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Cut Your Energy Bills</h2>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/home-improvement/insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-071377.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Energy New England</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Website</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">social media</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS MAIN PAGE','','publish','closed','closed','','recommendations-main-page','','','2018-08-10 01:13:03','2018-08-10 01:13:03','',0,'http://ev.ene.org/?elementor_library=recommendations-main-page',0,'elementor_library','',0),(2248,2,'2018-08-10 01:13:03','2018-08-10 01:13:03','','RECOMMENDATIONS MAIN PAGE','','inherit','closed','closed','','2247-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 01:13:03','2018-08-10 01:13:03','',2247,'http://ev.ene.org/2247-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2249,2,'2018-08-10 01:13:03','2018-08-10 01:13:03','<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">Understand common sources of energy waste in your home.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n		<p>Here in Massachusetts and Rhode Island, the winters are cold and the summers are hot. All homes waste energy, increasing utility bills and reducing comfort. We want to help you make the most of your energy investment in your home. ENE has partnered with energy efficiency expert and author, Bruce Harley, to provide you with advice from his book, <u>Insulate and Weatherize</u>. Learn about the many possible sources of energy loss in your home, how to save on your energy bills, and be more energy efficient. Whether you have had a recent Home Energy Assessment and are reviewing the recommendations from the Snugg Pro™ report, or are planning a home improvement project, this section contains information to help you achieve your energy goals.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n		<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Cut Your Energy Bills</h2>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/home-improvement/insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-071377.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Energy New England</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Website</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">social media</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS MAIN PAGE','','inherit','closed','closed','','2247-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 01:13:03','2018-08-10 01:13:03','',2247,'http://ev.ene.org/2247-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2251,2,'2018-08-10 01:17:05','2018-08-10 01:17:05','<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\"><p>Resources</p></h2>		\n		This section is intended to help you access additional information about energy efficiency ideas, designs, and products.<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Federal Sites</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">State Sites</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Information/Incentives and Assistance</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Online Home Energy Assessments</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Information on Efficient Appliances, Electronics, and Equipment</a></p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Federal Sites</h1>		\n		The United States Government has set up a number of websites to help energy consumers learn about their energy use and make energy efficient choices. Here are a few:<p><a href=\"https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/energy-saver\">U.S. Department of Energy - Energy Saver</a><br />Partnerships for home energy efficiency.</p><p><a href=\"https://www.energystar.gov/\">U.S Environmental Protection Agency - ENERGY STAR</a><br />Helps consumers make purchasing choices that reduce the energy they use.</p><p><a href=\"http://hes.lbl.gov/consumer/\">Home Energy Saver</a><br />An interactive program to help consumers identify the best ways to save energy in their home and find the resources to make savings happen.</p><p><a href=\"https://www.energy.gov/eere/office-energy-efficiency-renewable-energy\">U.S Department of Energy - Office of Energy Efficiency &amp; Renewable Energy</a><br />Government resources and data to help consumers research their energy saving options.</p><p><a href=\"https://www.energy.gov/eere/wipo/weatherization-and-intergovernmental-program-office-projects-map\">U.S Department of Energy - Weatherization and Intergovernmental Programs Office</a><br />Directory of weatherization programs by state.</p><p><a href=\"https://liheapch.acf.hhs.gov/referral.htm\">National Energy Assistance Referral (NEAR)</a><br />NEAR is a free service for persons who want information on where to apply for the Low Income Home Energy Assistance Program (LIHEAP), which may pay a portion of the energy bills of eligible low-income persons.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">State Sites</h1>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://www.mass.gov/energy-efficiency-for-your-home\">Mass.gov</a><br />Learn about energy efficiency programs, incentives, and products that will help you save energy and money in your home.</p><p><a href=\"https://www.mass.gov/guides/home-mvp\">Home Energy Market Value Performance (Home MVP) Pilot</a><br />A guide to the Home Energy Market Value Performance (Home MVP) Pilot that offers incentives to help Massachusetts residents reduce their home energy use, energy bills, and greenhouse gas emissions while improving home comfort and performance.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Information/Incentives and Assistance</h1>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Green/Renewable Power and Carbon Offset Information</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://www.green-e.org/\">Green-e</a><br />Search for renewable energy and carbon offsets by state and type.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Tax Credits and Other Incentives</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"http://www.dsireusa.org/\">Database of State Incentives for Renewables &amp; Efficiency (DSIRE) </a><br />A comprehensive directory of federal, state, and utility programs categorized by state, including loans, tax incentives, grants, rebates, and technical services.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Weatherization Assistance: Federal, State, and Utility Assistance for Income-Qualified Customers</p>		\n		<p>National Energy Assistance Referral (NEAR)<br />(866) 674-6327</p><p>U.S Department of Energy - Weatherization and Intergovernmental Programs Office<br />Directory of weatherization programs by state.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Online Home Energy Assessments</h1>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=home_energy_yardstick.showgetstarted\">ENERGY STAR – Home Energy Yardstick</a></p><p><a href=\"https://www.masssave.com/en/saving/energy-assessments/online-home-energy-assessment/\">Mass Save</a><br /><br /></p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Information on Efficient Appliances, Electronics, and Equipment</h1>		\n		Manufacturers listed in this section are a representative sample rather than an exhaustive list of all possible resources within each category; a listing here should not be considered an endorsement of products or third-party content.		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Comparison Shopping</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://www.ahridirectory.org/Search/SearchHome?ReturnUrl=%2f\">Air-Conditioning, Heating, &amp; Refrigeration Institute (AHRI)</a><br />Searchable database for heating, air-conditioning, and water-heating equipment efficiency ratings.</p><p><a href=\"http://www.cee1.org/content/cee-program-resources\">Consortium for Energy Efficiency (CEE) </a><br />CEE lists efficient appliances that generally exceed ENERGY STAR specifications. Click “RESIDENTIAL” for consumer electronics, home appliances, HVAC, and lighting.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Find Certified Professionals</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://www.acca.org/home\">Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA)</a><br />HVAC membership organization.</p><p><a href=\"http://www.hvacradvice.com/site/1/Home\">North American Technician Excellence (NATE)</a><br />Third-party certification for HVAC contractors.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Duct Sealing</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://aeroseal.com/\">Aeroseal</a><br />Licensed contractors in over 30 states.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Ductless Split Heat Pumps</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"http://www.daikinac.com/\">Daikin® AC</a></p><p><a href=\"http://www.fujitsugeneral.com/products/\">Fujitsu®</a></p><p><a href=\"http://www.mitsubishicomfort.com/\">Mitsubishi®</a></p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Heat Pump Water Heaters</p>		\n		Nyle Systems Geyser™		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">High-Efficiency Water Heaters and Solar Water-Heating Tanks</p>		\n		<a href=\"http://www.americanwaterheater.com/\">American Water Heaters</a>\n<a href=\"https://www.hotwater.com/\">AO Smith® Corporation</a>\n<a href=\"https://www.bradfordwhite.com/\">Bradford White® Corporation</a>\n<a href=\"http://www.htproducts.com/\">Heat Transfer Products (HTP®)</a>\nBoilers and water heaters.\n<a href=\"https://www.rheem.com/\">Rheem</a>\n<a href=\"https://www.rheem.com/innovations/innovation_residential/marathon/?utm_source=/marathon/&amp;utm_medium=vanityURL&amp;utm_campaign=vanityURL%3f\">Rheem – Marathon®</a>\nElectric-resistance water heaters.		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Household Air Quality and Healthy Remodeling Resources</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://buildingscience.com/document-search?term=&amp;field_doc_topic_tid=All&amp;type%5B%5D=4\">Building Science Corporation (BSC)</a><br />Contains “READ THIS” and “What You Need to Know About Mold” booklets.</p><p><a href=\"https://www.dorken.com/en/our-products/products/residential/delta-fl.php\">DELTA®-FL</a><br />Warm and dry floor system for basement and on-grade slabs.</p><p><a href=\"http://nchh.org/\">National Center for Healthy Housing (NCHH)</a></p><p><a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq\">U.S. Environmental Protection Agency</a><br />Links for asthma, mold, lead, radon, etc.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">HVAC Equipment</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"http://www.firstco.com/#/\">Aquatherm®</a><br />Hydro-air handlers.</p><p><a href=\"http://www.durodyne.com/home.php\">Duro Dyne Corporation</a><br />High-quality duct dampers and HVAC supplies.</p><p><a href=\"http://www.spacepak.com/\">Spacepak</a><br />Compact high-velocity HVAC and ductwork.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Insulation</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://www.dow.com/en-us/building\">Dow Thermax</a><br />Rigid foam rated for exposed service.</p><p><a href=\"https://www.cellulose.org/index.php\">Cellulose Installation Manufacturers Association (CIMA)</a><br />Manufacturer links can provide contractor referrals.</p><p><a href=\"https://insulationinstitute.org/\">North American Insulation Manufacturers Association (NAIMA)</a></p><p><a href=\"http://www.sprayfoam.org/\">Spray Polyurethane Foam Alliance (SPFA)</a></p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Pool Pump Sizing Information</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/installing-and-operating-efficient-swimming-pool-pump\">U.S. Department of Energy - Energy Saver</a></p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Solar and Alternative Energy</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://pvwatts.nrel.gov/\">National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL)</a><br />Solar electric calculator.</p><p><a href=\"http://www.solar-rating.org/\">Solar Rating &amp; Certification Corporation (ICC-SRCC)</a><br />Ratings on solar water heating and pool heating collectors and systems.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Energy New England</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Website</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">social media</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RESOURCES PAGE','','publish','closed','closed','','resources-page','','','2018-08-10 01:17:06','2018-08-10 01:17:06','',0,'http://ev.ene.org/?elementor_library=resources-page',0,'elementor_library','',0),(2252,2,'2018-08-10 01:17:05','2018-08-10 01:17:05','','RESOURCES PAGE','','inherit','closed','closed','','2251-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 01:17:05','2018-08-10 01:17:05','',2251,'http://ev.ene.org/2251-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2253,2,'2018-08-10 01:17:06','2018-08-10 01:17:06','<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\"><p>Resources</p></h2>		\n		This section is intended to help you access additional information about energy efficiency ideas, designs, and products.<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Federal Sites</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">State Sites</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Information/Incentives and Assistance</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Online Home Energy Assessments</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Information on Efficient Appliances, Electronics, and Equipment</a></p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Federal Sites</h1>		\n		The United States Government has set up a number of websites to help energy consumers learn about their energy use and make energy efficient choices. Here are a few:<p><a href=\"https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/energy-saver\">U.S. Department of Energy - Energy Saver</a><br />Partnerships for home energy efficiency.</p><p><a href=\"https://www.energystar.gov/\">U.S Environmental Protection Agency - ENERGY STAR</a><br />Helps consumers make purchasing choices that reduce the energy they use.</p><p><a href=\"http://hes.lbl.gov/consumer/\">Home Energy Saver</a><br />An interactive program to help consumers identify the best ways to save energy in their home and find the resources to make savings happen.</p><p><a href=\"https://www.energy.gov/eere/office-energy-efficiency-renewable-energy\">U.S Department of Energy - Office of Energy Efficiency &amp; Renewable Energy</a><br />Government resources and data to help consumers research their energy saving options.</p><p><a href=\"https://www.energy.gov/eere/wipo/weatherization-and-intergovernmental-program-office-projects-map\">U.S Department of Energy - Weatherization and Intergovernmental Programs Office</a><br />Directory of weatherization programs by state.</p><p><a href=\"https://liheapch.acf.hhs.gov/referral.htm\">National Energy Assistance Referral (NEAR)</a><br />NEAR is a free service for persons who want information on where to apply for the Low Income Home Energy Assistance Program (LIHEAP), which may pay a portion of the energy bills of eligible low-income persons.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">State Sites</h1>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://www.mass.gov/energy-efficiency-for-your-home\">Mass.gov</a><br />Learn about energy efficiency programs, incentives, and products that will help you save energy and money in your home.</p><p><a href=\"https://www.mass.gov/guides/home-mvp\">Home Energy Market Value Performance (Home MVP) Pilot</a><br />A guide to the Home Energy Market Value Performance (Home MVP) Pilot that offers incentives to help Massachusetts residents reduce their home energy use, energy bills, and greenhouse gas emissions while improving home comfort and performance.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Information/Incentives and Assistance</h1>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Green/Renewable Power and Carbon Offset Information</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://www.green-e.org/\">Green-e</a><br />Search for renewable energy and carbon offsets by state and type.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Tax Credits and Other Incentives</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"http://www.dsireusa.org/\">Database of State Incentives for Renewables &amp; Efficiency (DSIRE) </a><br />A comprehensive directory of federal, state, and utility programs categorized by state, including loans, tax incentives, grants, rebates, and technical services.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Weatherization Assistance: Federal, State, and Utility Assistance for Income-Qualified Customers</p>		\n		<p>National Energy Assistance Referral (NEAR)<br />(866) 674-6327</p><p>U.S Department of Energy - Weatherization and Intergovernmental Programs Office<br />Directory of weatherization programs by state.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Online Home Energy Assessments</h1>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=home_energy_yardstick.showgetstarted\">ENERGY STAR – Home Energy Yardstick</a></p><p><a href=\"https://www.masssave.com/en/saving/energy-assessments/online-home-energy-assessment/\">Mass Save</a><br /><br /></p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Information on Efficient Appliances, Electronics, and Equipment</h1>		\n		Manufacturers listed in this section are a representative sample rather than an exhaustive list of all possible resources within each category; a listing here should not be considered an endorsement of products or third-party content.		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Comparison Shopping</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://www.ahridirectory.org/Search/SearchHome?ReturnUrl=%2f\">Air-Conditioning, Heating, &amp; Refrigeration Institute (AHRI)</a><br />Searchable database for heating, air-conditioning, and water-heating equipment efficiency ratings.</p><p><a href=\"http://www.cee1.org/content/cee-program-resources\">Consortium for Energy Efficiency (CEE) </a><br />CEE lists efficient appliances that generally exceed ENERGY STAR specifications. Click “RESIDENTIAL” for consumer electronics, home appliances, HVAC, and lighting.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Find Certified Professionals</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://www.acca.org/home\">Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA)</a><br />HVAC membership organization.</p><p><a href=\"http://www.hvacradvice.com/site/1/Home\">North American Technician Excellence (NATE)</a><br />Third-party certification for HVAC contractors.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Duct Sealing</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://aeroseal.com/\">Aeroseal</a><br />Licensed contractors in over 30 states.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Ductless Split Heat Pumps</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"http://www.daikinac.com/\">Daikin® AC</a></p><p><a href=\"http://www.fujitsugeneral.com/products/\">Fujitsu®</a></p><p><a href=\"http://www.mitsubishicomfort.com/\">Mitsubishi®</a></p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Heat Pump Water Heaters</p>		\n		Nyle Systems Geyser™		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">High-Efficiency Water Heaters and Solar Water-Heating Tanks</p>		\n		<a href=\"http://www.americanwaterheater.com/\">American Water Heaters</a>\n<a href=\"https://www.hotwater.com/\">AO Smith® Corporation</a>\n<a href=\"https://www.bradfordwhite.com/\">Bradford White® Corporation</a>\n<a href=\"http://www.htproducts.com/\">Heat Transfer Products (HTP®)</a>\nBoilers and water heaters.\n<a href=\"https://www.rheem.com/\">Rheem</a>\n<a href=\"https://www.rheem.com/innovations/innovation_residential/marathon/?utm_source=/marathon/&amp;utm_medium=vanityURL&amp;utm_campaign=vanityURL%3f\">Rheem – Marathon®</a>\nElectric-resistance water heaters.		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Household Air Quality and Healthy Remodeling Resources</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://buildingscience.com/document-search?term=&amp;field_doc_topic_tid=All&amp;type%5B%5D=4\">Building Science Corporation (BSC)</a><br />Contains “READ THIS” and “What You Need to Know About Mold” booklets.</p><p><a href=\"https://www.dorken.com/en/our-products/products/residential/delta-fl.php\">DELTA®-FL</a><br />Warm and dry floor system for basement and on-grade slabs.</p><p><a href=\"http://nchh.org/\">National Center for Healthy Housing (NCHH)</a></p><p><a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq\">U.S. Environmental Protection Agency</a><br />Links for asthma, mold, lead, radon, etc.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">HVAC Equipment</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"http://www.firstco.com/#/\">Aquatherm®</a><br />Hydro-air handlers.</p><p><a href=\"http://www.durodyne.com/home.php\">Duro Dyne Corporation</a><br />High-quality duct dampers and HVAC supplies.</p><p><a href=\"http://www.spacepak.com/\">Spacepak</a><br />Compact high-velocity HVAC and ductwork.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Insulation</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://www.dow.com/en-us/building\">Dow Thermax</a><br />Rigid foam rated for exposed service.</p><p><a href=\"https://www.cellulose.org/index.php\">Cellulose Installation Manufacturers Association (CIMA)</a><br />Manufacturer links can provide contractor referrals.</p><p><a href=\"https://insulationinstitute.org/\">North American Insulation Manufacturers Association (NAIMA)</a></p><p><a href=\"http://www.sprayfoam.org/\">Spray Polyurethane Foam Alliance (SPFA)</a></p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Pool Pump Sizing Information</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/installing-and-operating-efficient-swimming-pool-pump\">U.S. Department of Energy - Energy Saver</a></p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Solar and Alternative Energy</p>		\n		<p><a href=\"https://pvwatts.nrel.gov/\">National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL)</a><br />Solar electric calculator.</p><p><a href=\"http://www.solar-rating.org/\">Solar Rating &amp; Certification Corporation (ICC-SRCC)</a><br />Ratings on solar water heating and pool heating collectors and systems.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Energy New England</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Website</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">social media</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RESOURCES PAGE','','inherit','closed','closed','','2251-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 01:17:06','2018-08-10 01:17:06','',2251,'http://ev.ene.org/2251-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2256,2,'2018-08-10 01:33:13','2018-08-10 01:33:13','<h2>Home Energy Assessment</h2>		\n		<p>Uncover savings by having a <strong>free</strong> assessment of your home\'s energy use.</p>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.energynewengland.com/CMS_Intake.aspx\" role=\"button\">\n						SIGN UP NOW\n					</a>\n		ENE provides conservation services for the residential customers of our partnering utilities. Our highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.<p>You’ll receive a report that outlines the best steps to take in order to improve your home’s energy usage along with how much each step could potentially save you on energy costs in the future. Complimentary energy saving materials, such as LED light bulbs and efficient power strips, will be provided during the course of the assessment as well.</p><p>Participating residential customers can request a Home Energy Assessment, or receive information about rebates and incentives offered by their utility by calling ENE’s energy hotline.</p>RESIDENTIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT<p>The Energy Advisor will evaluate a broad range of energy saving opportunities in the home, including:</p>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Insulation\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Appliances\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Heating/cooling Windows and door weather-stripping \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Water heating Efficient lighting \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Window and door replacement\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Preparing for Your Energy Assessment</h2>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Make a list of concerns you have about your home, such as drafty rooms, old heating equipment, or high bills.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Also, please provide 12 Months of Heating Fuel usage (Oil, Propane, Gas, Wood, etc.) information to the Energy Advisor. If you do not have fuel usage information, please make our Advisor aware of this at the time of your assessment.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										If you have pets, kindly secure them. Please ensure full access to the home with clear access to the attic and basement, and if available a stable ladder.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Should you have any questions or concerns, please call the Energy New England Hotline at: <b>888-772-4242</b> or if you prefer email, <u>solutions@ene.org</u>.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your appointment today.​</h2>		\n		<p>For more information about how Energy New England can help you, please call <strong>508-698-1208 </strong>or email us at <strong>solutions@ene.org</strong>.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','ENERGY ASSESSMENT','','inherit','closed','closed','','14-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 01:33:13','2018-08-10 01:33:13','',14,'http://ev.ene.org/14-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2257,2,'2018-08-10 01:34:15','2018-08-10 01:34:15','<h2>Home Energy Assessment</h2>		\n		<p>Uncover savings by having a <strong>free</strong> assessment of your home\'s energy use.</p>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.energynewengland.com/CMS_Intake.aspx\" role=\"button\">\n						SIGN UP NOW\n					</a>\n		ENE provides conservation services for the residential customers of our partnering utilities. Our highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.<p>You’ll receive a report that outlines the best steps to take in order to improve your home’s energy usage along with how much each step could potentially save you on energy costs in the future. Complimentary energy saving materials, such as LED light bulbs and efficient power strips, will be provided during the course of the assessment as well.</p><p>Participating residential customers can request a Home Energy Assessment, or receive information about rebates and incentives offered by their utility by calling ENE’s energy hotline.</p>RESIDENTIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT<p>The Energy Advisor will evaluate a broad range of energy saving opportunities in the home, including:</p>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Insulation\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Appliances\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Heating/cooling Windows and door weather-stripping \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Water heating Efficient lighting \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Window and door replacement\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Preparing for Your Energy Assessment</h2>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Make a list of concerns you have about your home, such as drafty rooms, old heating equipment, or high bills.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Also, please provide 12 Months of Heating Fuel usage (Oil, Propane, Gas, Wood, etc.) information to the Energy Advisor. If you do not have fuel usage information, please make our Advisor aware of this at the time of your assessment.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										If you have pets, kindly secure them. Please ensure full access to the home with clear access to the attic and basement, and if available a stable ladder.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Should you have any questions or concerns, please call the Energy New England Hotline at: <b>888-772-4242</b> or if you prefer email, <u>solutions@ene.org</u>.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your appointment today.​</h2>		\n		<p>For more information about how Energy New England can help you, please call <strong>508-698-1208 </strong>or email us at <a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\"><strong>solutions@ene.org</strong></a>.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','ENERGY ASSESSMENT','','inherit','closed','closed','','14-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 01:34:15','2018-08-10 01:34:15','',14,'http://ev.ene.org/14-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2259,2,'2018-08-10 01:38:32','2018-08-10 01:38:32','<h2>Home Energy Assessment</h2>		\n		<p>Uncover savings by having a <strong>free</strong> assessment of your home\'s energy use.</p>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.energynewengland.com/CMS_Intake.aspx\" role=\"button\">\n						SIGN UP NOW\n					</a>\n		ENE provides conservation services for the residential customers of our partnering utilities. Our highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.<p>You’ll receive a report that outlines the best steps to take in order to improve your home’s energy usage along with how much each step could potentially save you on energy costs in the future. Complimentary energy saving materials, such as LED light bulbs and efficient power strips, will be provided during the course of the assessment as well.</p><p>Participating residential customers can request a Home Energy Assessment, or receive information about rebates and incentives offered by their utility by calling ENE’s energy hotline.</p>RESIDENTIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT<p>The Energy Advisor will evaluate a broad range of energy saving opportunities in the home, including:</p>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Insulation\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Appliances\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Heating/cooling Windows and door weather-stripping \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Water heating Efficient lighting \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Window and door replacement\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Preparing for Your Energy Assessment</h2>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Make a list of concerns you have about your home, such as drafty rooms, old heating equipment, or high bills.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Also, please provide 12 Months of Heating Fuel usage (Oil, Propane, Gas, Wood, etc.) information to the Energy Advisor. If you do not have fuel usage information, please make our Advisor aware of this at the time of your assessment.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										If you have pets, kindly secure them. Please ensure full access to the home with clear access to the attic and basement, and if available a stable ladder.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Should you have any questions or concerns, please call the Energy New England Hotline at: <b>888-772-4242</b> or if you prefer email, <u>solutions@ene.org</u>.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your appointment today.​</h2>		\n		<p>For more information about how Energy New England can help you, please call <strong>508-698-1208 </strong>or email us at <a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\"><strong style=\"text-decoration: underline; color:white;\">solutions@ene.org</strong></a>.</p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','ENERGY ASSESSMENT','','inherit','closed','closed','','14-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 01:38:32','2018-08-10 01:38:32','',14,'http://ev.ene.org/14-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2261,2,'2018-08-10 01:43:00','2018-08-10 01:43:00','<h2>Home Energy Assessment</h2>		\n		<p>Uncover savings by having a <strong>free</strong> assessment of your home\'s energy use.</p>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.energynewengland.com/CMS_Intake.aspx\" role=\"button\">\n						SIGN UP NOW\n					</a>\n		ENE provides conservation services for the residential customers of our partnering utilities. Our highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.<p>You’ll receive a report that outlines the best steps to take in order to improve your home’s energy usage along with how much each step could potentially save you on energy costs in the future. Complimentary energy saving materials, such as LED light bulbs and efficient power strips, will be provided during the course of the assessment as well.</p><p>Participating residential customers can request a Home Energy Assessment, or receive information about rebates and incentives offered by their utility by calling ENE’s energy hotline.</p>RESIDENTIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT<p>The Energy Advisor will evaluate a broad range of energy saving opportunities in the home, including:</p>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Insulation\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Appliances\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Heating/cooling Windows and door weather-stripping \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Water heating Efficient lighting \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Window and door replacement\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Preparing for Your Energy Assessment</h2>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Make a list of concerns you have about your home, such as drafty rooms, old heating equipment, or high bills.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Also, please provide 12 Months of Heating Fuel usage (Oil, Propane, Gas, Wood, etc.) information to the Energy Advisor. If you do not have fuel usage information, please make our Advisor aware of this at the time of your assessment.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										If you have pets, kindly secure them. Please ensure full access to the home with clear access to the attic and basement, and if available a stable ladder.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Should you have any questions or concerns, please call the Energy New England Hotline at: <b>888-772-4242</b> or if you prefer email, <u>solutions@ene.org</u>.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your appointment today.​</h2>		\n		<p>For more information about how Energy New England can help you, please call <strong>508-698-1208 </strong>or email us at <a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\"><strong style=\"text-decoration: underline; color:white;\">solutions@ene.org</strong></a>.</p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n			<h4>social media</h4>','ENERGY ASSESSMENT','','inherit','closed','closed','','14-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 01:43:00','2018-08-10 01:43:00','',14,'http://ev.ene.org/14-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2262,2,'2018-08-10 01:43:46','2018-08-10 01:43:46','<h2>Home Energy Assessment</h2>		\n		<p>Uncover savings by having a <strong>free</strong> assessment of your home\'s energy use.</p>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.energynewengland.com/CMS_Intake.aspx\" role=\"button\">\n						SIGN UP NOW\n					</a>\n		ENE provides conservation services for the residential customers of our partnering utilities. Our highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.<p>You’ll receive a report that outlines the best steps to take in order to improve your home’s energy usage along with how much each step could potentially save you on energy costs in the future. Complimentary energy saving materials, such as LED light bulbs and efficient power strips, will be provided during the course of the assessment as well.</p><p>Participating residential customers can request a Home Energy Assessment, or receive information about rebates and incentives offered by their utility by calling ENE’s energy hotline.</p>RESIDENTIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT<p>The Energy Advisor will evaluate a broad range of energy saving opportunities in the home, including:</p>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Insulation\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Appliances\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Heating/cooling Windows and door weather-stripping \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Water heating Efficient lighting \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Window and door replacement\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Preparing for Your Energy Assessment</h2>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Make a list of concerns you have about your home, such as drafty rooms, old heating equipment, or high bills.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Also, please provide 12 Months of Heating Fuel usage (Oil, Propane, Gas, Wood, etc.) information to the Energy Advisor. If you do not have fuel usage information, please make our Advisor aware of this at the time of your assessment.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										If you have pets, kindly secure them. Please ensure full access to the home with clear access to the attic and basement, and if available a stable ladder.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Should you have any questions or concerns, please call the Energy New England Hotline at: <b>888-772-4242</b> or if you prefer email, <u>solutions@ene.org</u>.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your appointment today.​</h2>		\n		<p>For more information about how Energy New England can help you, please call <strong>508-698-1208 </strong>or email us at <a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\"><strong style=\"text-decoration: underline; color:white;\">solutions@ene.org</strong></a>.</p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','ENERGY ASSESSMENT','','inherit','closed','closed','','14-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 01:43:46','2018-08-10 01:43:46','',14,'http://ev.ene.org/14-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2263,2,'2018-08-10 01:44:02','2018-08-10 01:44:02','<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Home Energy Assessment</h2>		\n		<p>Uncover savings by having a <strong>free</strong> assessment of your home\'s energy use.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<a href=\"https://www.energynewengland.com/CMS_Intake.aspx\" role=\"button\">\n						SIGN UP NOW\n					</a>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n		ENE provides conservation services for the residential customers of our partnering utilities. Our highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.<p>You’ll receive a report that outlines the best steps to take in order to improve your home’s energy usage along with how much each step could potentially save you on energy costs in the future. Complimentary energy saving materials, such as LED light bulbs and efficient power strips, will be provided during the course of the assessment as well.</p><p>Participating residential customers can request a Home Energy Assessment, or receive information about rebates and incentives offered by their utility by calling ENE’s energy hotline.</p>RESIDENTIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT<p>The Energy Advisor will evaluate a broad range of energy saving opportunities in the home, including:</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Insulation\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Appliances\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Heating/cooling Windows and door weather-stripping \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Water heating Efficient lighting \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Window and door replacement\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Preparing for Your Energy Assessment</h2>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Make a list of concerns you have about your home, such as drafty rooms, old heating equipment, or high bills.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Also, please provide 12 Months of Heating Fuel usage (Oil, Propane, Gas, Wood, etc.) information to the Energy Advisor. If you do not have fuel usage information, please make our Advisor aware of this at the time of your assessment.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										If you have pets, kindly secure them. Please ensure full access to the home with clear access to the attic and basement, and if available a stable ladder.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Should you have any questions or concerns, please call the Energy New England Hotline at: <b>888-772-4242</b> or if you prefer email, <u>solutions@ene.org</u>.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your appointment today.​</h2>		\n		<p>For more information about how Energy New England can help you, please call <strong>508-698-1208 </strong>or email us at <a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\"><strong style=\"text-decoration: underline; color:white;\">solutions@ene.org</strong></a>.</p>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Energy New England</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Website</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">social media</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','HEA PAGE','','publish','closed','closed','','hea-page-2','','','2018-08-10 01:44:02','2018-08-10 01:44:02','',0,'http://ev.ene.org/?elementor_library=hea-page-2',0,'elementor_library','',0),(2264,2,'2018-08-10 01:44:02','2018-08-10 01:44:02','','HEA PAGE','','inherit','closed','closed','','2263-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 01:44:02','2018-08-10 01:44:02','',2263,'http://ev.ene.org/2263-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2265,2,'2018-08-10 01:44:02','2018-08-10 01:44:02','<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Home Energy Assessment</h2>		\n		<p>Uncover savings by having a <strong>free</strong> assessment of your home\'s energy use.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<a href=\"https://www.energynewengland.com/CMS_Intake.aspx\" role=\"button\">\n						SIGN UP NOW\n					</a>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n		ENE provides conservation services for the residential customers of our partnering utilities. Our highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.<p>You’ll receive a report that outlines the best steps to take in order to improve your home’s energy usage along with how much each step could potentially save you on energy costs in the future. Complimentary energy saving materials, such as LED light bulbs and efficient power strips, will be provided during the course of the assessment as well.</p><p>Participating residential customers can request a Home Energy Assessment, or receive information about rebates and incentives offered by their utility by calling ENE’s energy hotline.</p>RESIDENTIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT<p>The Energy Advisor will evaluate a broad range of energy saving opportunities in the home, including:</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Insulation\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Appliances\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Heating/cooling Windows and door weather-stripping \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Water heating Efficient lighting \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Window and door replacement\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Preparing for Your Energy Assessment</h2>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Make a list of concerns you have about your home, such as drafty rooms, old heating equipment, or high bills.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Also, please provide 12 Months of Heating Fuel usage (Oil, Propane, Gas, Wood, etc.) information to the Energy Advisor. If you do not have fuel usage information, please make our Advisor aware of this at the time of your assessment.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										If you have pets, kindly secure them. Please ensure full access to the home with clear access to the attic and basement, and if available a stable ladder.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Should you have any questions or concerns, please call the Energy New England Hotline at: <b>888-772-4242</b> or if you prefer email, <u>solutions@ene.org</u>.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your appointment today.​</h2>		\n		<p>For more information about how Energy New England can help you, please call <strong>508-698-1208 </strong>or email us at <a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\"><strong style=\"text-decoration: underline; color:white;\">solutions@ene.org</strong></a>.</p>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Energy New England</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Website</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">social media</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','HEA PAGE','','inherit','closed','closed','','2263-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 01:44:02','2018-08-10 01:44:02','',2263,'http://ev.ene.org/2263-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2275,2,'2018-08-10 01:51:24','2018-08-10 01:51:24','<h2>Braintree Electric Light Department</h2>','H1','','inherit','closed','closed','','1616-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 01:51:24','2018-08-10 01:51:24','',1616,'http://ev.ene.org/1616-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2276,2,'2018-08-10 01:51:24','2018-08-10 01:51:24','<h3>Rebates</h3>','h2','','inherit','closed','closed','','1619-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 01:51:24','2018-08-10 01:51:24','',1619,'http://ev.ene.org/1619-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2277,2,'2018-08-10 01:51:24','2018-08-10 01:51:24','<h3>Rebates</h3>','h2','','inherit','closed','closed','','1619-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 01:51:24','2018-08-10 01:51:24','',1619,'http://ev.ene.org/1619-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2278,2,'2018-08-10 01:51:24','2018-08-10 01:51:24','<h3>Rebates</h3>','h2','','inherit','closed','closed','','1619-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 01:51:24','2018-08-10 01:51:24','',1619,'http://ev.ene.org/1619-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2284,2,'2018-08-10 01:58:08','2018-08-10 01:58:08','<h2><p>Air-Conditioning</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Cooling Basics</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Reducing Loads</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Maintenance And Upgrades</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">New Air-Conditioning Systems</a></p>\n			<h1>Cooling Basics</h1>		\n		Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads—and bills—benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.		\n			<p>Where does the heat come from?</p>		\n		In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it’s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it’s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\n			<p>How air conditioners work</p>		\n		Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system’s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\n			<h1>Reducing Loads</h1>		\n		With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than “cooling down” the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run—saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\n			<p>Reduce the need for cooling</p>		\n		One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system’s run time and saves energy. \nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4°F to 6°F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Cond_Pic1.png\" title=\"Air_Cond_Pic1\" alt=\"Air_Cond_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>When you buy a ceiling fan, always choose an Energy Star model. Hundreds are available, with or without built-in efficient lights, for $75 to $225 each.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Duct insulation and sealing</p>		\n		Air-conditioning ducts have the same leakage and insulation issues as those of heating ducts. In fact, leaks and missing insulation in attic ductwork hurt air-conditioning systems more than heating systems, because during peak cooling times attics are usually much hotter than outdoor ambient temperatures. All air conditioning ducts in attics, crawlspaces, and garages should be thoroughly sealed and insulated		\n			<h1>Maintenance and Upgrades</h1>		\n		Like most other equipment, air conditioners need regular maintenance and service. Some things you can probably do yourself, whereas others require a professional technician.		\n			<p>Airflow</p>		\n		Like heat pumps and furnaces, air-conditioning systems depend on adequate airflow to remove heat efficiently from your house. Whether you have a central air conditioner or individual room units, check the filters regularly and clean or replace them when they are dirty— once or twice a season should be adequate. Because airflow is important, do not shut off any of the supply registers in the system—\nespecially if the ducts are located in an attic, garage, or crawlspace.\n			<p>Cleaning air coils</p>		\n		When filters don’t work properly or air gets around them, the evaporator coil can become clogged with dirt and dust. Depending on the system, you may need a service technician to access the coil. If you can reach it yourself, lift the dirt from behind with a stiff brush. Be careful not to drive dirt further in or bend the fins. The outdoor condenser coil should also be kept clean and free of dirt and debris. Don’t spray water directly at the coil, which may drive dirt deeper into the space between the fins. Instead, using a long-bristle brush with flexible bristles, carefully insert the bristles between the fins, and lift the dirt from behind. 		\n			<p>Regular service</p>		\n		Regular service calls—typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, checking and cleaning the blower, condenser, and evaporator coils as needed, checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines, and checking the condensate drain. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing any airflow problems, and then carefully measuring and correcting the refrigerant charge. Like a heat pump, once that has been done, service technicians should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless there is evidence that something is wrong. Like a heat pump, an over- or undercharged air conditioner is less efficient (particularly older models), and systems are often improperly charged. Airflow must be in the recommended range of 400 CFM to 425 CFM per ton before the refrigerant charge can be measured. \n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"236\" height=\"181\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_conditioning_Pic2.png\" alt=\"\" />											<figcaption>Window- or wall-mounted air conditioners have lower efficiency ratings than central systems, but there are no ducts to waste the cold air. And cooling only one or two rooms can use much less energy than cooling an entire house.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h1>New Air-Conditioning Systems</h1>		\n		If you live in a hot climate and have central air conditioning that is 20 years old or more, replacing your system with a new, energy-efficient model should pay for itself in a reasonable time. High-efficiency systems on the market today are more than twice as efficient as systems from the 1980s. But before running out and replacing your system, you will first need to do two other things: Finish any upgrades on the building enclosure, and become familiar with air conditioning products and installation criteria. Of course, if you have a fairly new system (less than 10 years old), it is probably more cost effective to maintain it and keep it running as efficiently as possible until it wears out. As always, energy-efficient upgrades always cost the least when you are fixing or replacing something anyway. If your old air conditioner is on its last legs or not operating, replace it with the most efficient unit you can find.\n			<p>High-efficiency air-conditioning</p>		\n		New central air conditioners are rated for energy performance with a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). SEER ratings are measurements under standardized test conditions of Btu per hour of cooling output, divided by input watts. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. New central air conditioners are required to have a SEER rating of at least 13; the most efficient units have SEER ratings from 16 to 23. Some of the best high efficiency systems have two-speed compressors; the lower speed provides better, more efficient cooling and dehumidification under mild, part load conditions. When you are replacing a central air conditioning unit with a more efficient one, it’s very important to match the new outdoor unit and the indoor evaporator coil. You may be able to save some money on the installation by keeping your old coil but be careful: you’re unlikely to get the full efficiency ratings of the new unit. If you get a proposal to replace only the outdoor unit, the contractor should be able to demonstrate that the existing indoor coil is listed for use with the new outdoor unit; don’t accept “don’t worry, it’s fine the way it is” as an answer.\n			<p>Sizing a system</p>		\n		Proper sizing has been emphasized as a key efficiency issue for years in the energy-efficiency world, but there’s little evidence that it affects operating costs very much. Duct leakage and insulation in unconditioned spaces are far more important, especially with modern, high efficiency equipment. \nOversized air conditioners do cost more to buy and maintain and require more airflow and larger ductwork. Dehumidification, which depends on air flowing through the evaporator coil for enough time to extract condensed moisture, is one important reason to carefully size an air conditioning system in humid climates. When an oversized system runs for only a few minutes, the moisture may just start to collect on the coils before the thermostat is satisfied. Once the unit shuts down, the moisture re-evaporates into the house. An air conditioner that is too large by 50 percent to 100 percent will be unable to control humidity effectively, so people may tend to set the thermostat lower to compensate. Many new, efficient air conditioners have multiple speeds or special dehumidification modes that can effectively compensate for oversizing; if you are in a humid climate, consider one of these features, or get a stand-alone dehumidifier.\nCorrect load calculations are based on your home’s window size, the glass type, and the size and R-values of the walls and roof. The proper size also varies with the direction the home faces: Sometimes a 90-degree rotation can cut the cooling load in half. If a contractor gives you a price for an air conditioner on the phone, or simply offers to replace the existing unit with a new one of the same size, get a bid from someone else, especially if you have already made energy improvements in your house. The money\nyou save by buying a smaller unit may pay for an efficiency upgrade.\nWhen installing a new air conditioner, shop for value, not just for price. Other things to look for when assessing bids on new air-conditioning equipment include the warranties (from both the manufacturer and the installer), service contracts, longevity of the business, customer references, and technician knowledge. Try to find a contractor who is an Energy Star partner and/or NATE certified, or regularly attends manufacturer’s trainings.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Conditioning_Pic3.png\" title=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic3\" alt=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic3\" />											<figcaption>All new air conditioners have an Energy Guide label that shows its efficiency rating, as well as a comparison with the ratings of other units of the same type. Room units have an EER, while central systems have a SEER.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n		Ductless mini-split air conditioners are a great alternative to window units. They are more efficient and quieter, and they don’t use up a window (or allow air leakage). The most efficient units on the market are\nalso heat pumps that can save money on your heating bills, too. A mini-split costs about 10 times as much as a decent window unit, but may cost a third to a half as much as retrofitting central air into an existing home.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/air_Conditioning_Pic4.png\" title=\"air_Conditioning_Pic4\" alt=\"air_Conditioning_Pic4\" />											<figcaption>All new air conditioners have an Energy Guide label that shows its efficiency rating, as well as a comparison with the ratings of other units of the same type. Room units have an EER, while central systems have a SEER.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Conditioning_Pic5.png\" title=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic5\" alt=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic5\" />											<figcaption>New air-conditioning systems are more than twice as efficient as the minimum standards of 20 years ago—the best ones have almost triple the efficiency.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Air Conditioning','','inherit','closed','closed','','48-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 01:58:08','2018-08-10 01:58:08','',48,'http://ev.ene.org/48-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2285,2,'2018-08-10 02:00:58','2018-08-10 02:00:58','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Electric Vehicles','','inherit','closed','closed','','60-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 02:00:58','2018-08-10 02:00:58','',60,'http://ev.ene.org/60-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2286,2,'2018-08-10 02:01:27','2018-08-10 02:01:27','<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\"><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Energy New England</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Website</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">social media</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS SUB PAGE','','publish','closed','closed','','recommendations-sub-page-2','','','2018-08-10 02:01:27','2018-08-10 02:01:27','',0,'http://ev.ene.org/?elementor_library=recommendations-sub-page-2',0,'elementor_library','',0),(2287,2,'2018-08-10 02:01:27','2018-08-10 02:01:27','','RECOMMENDATIONS SUB PAGE','','inherit','closed','closed','','2286-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 02:01:27','2018-08-10 02:01:27','',2286,'http://ev.ene.org/2286-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2288,2,'2018-08-10 02:01:27','2018-08-10 02:01:27','<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\"><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<p data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h1 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Energy New England</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Website</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">social media</h4>		\n			<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS SUB PAGE','','inherit','closed','closed','','2286-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 02:01:27','2018-08-10 02:01:27','',2286,'http://ev.ene.org/2286-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2289,2,'2018-08-10 02:02:53','2018-08-10 02:02:53','<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','footer - social media 01','','publish','closed','closed','','footer-social-media-01','','','2018-10-22 18:52:20','2018-10-22 18:52:20','',0,'http://ev.ene.org/?elementor_library=footer-social-media-01',0,'elementor_library','',0),(2290,2,'2018-08-10 02:02:53','2018-08-10 02:02:53','','footer - social media 01','','inherit','closed','closed','','2289-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 02:02:53','2018-08-10 02:02:53','',2289,'http://ev.ene.org/2289-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2291,2,'2018-08-10 02:02:54','2018-08-10 02:02:54','<ul>\n									<li title=\"Edit\">\n						Edit\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','footer - social media 01','','inherit','closed','closed','','2289-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 02:02:54','2018-08-10 02:02:54','',2289,'http://ev.ene.org/2289-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2292,2,'2018-08-10 02:04:12','2018-08-10 02:04:12','<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','footer - social media 01','','inherit','closed','closed','','2289-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 02:04:12','2018-08-10 02:04:12','',2289,'http://ev.ene.org/2289-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2293,2,'2018-08-10 02:04:12','2018-08-10 02:04:12','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Facebook\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Youtube\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Medium\n				</a>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Electric Vehicles','','inherit','closed','closed','','60-revision-v1','','','2018-08-10 02:04:12','2018-08-10 02:04:12','',60,'http://ev.ene.org/60-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2591,2,'2018-08-28 18:19:28','2018-08-28 18:19:28','','fifthflour.png','','inherit','open','closed','','fifthflour-png','','','2018-08-28 18:19:28','2018-08-28 18:19:28','',0,'/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/fifthflour.png',0,'attachment','image/png',0),(2593,2,'2018-08-28 18:19:29','2018-08-28 18:19:29','','digit.png','','inherit','open','closed','','digit-png','','','2018-08-28 18:19:29','2018-08-28 18:19:29','',0,'/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/digit.png',0,'attachment','image/png',0),(2594,2,'2018-08-28 18:19:29','2018-08-28 18:19:29','','darkside.png','','inherit','open','closed','','darkside-png','','','2018-08-28 18:19:29','2018-08-28 18:19:29','',0,'/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/darkside.png',0,'attachment','image/png',0),(2597,2,'2018-08-28 18:23:32','2018-08-28 18:23:32','<h2>Learn to make the most of your energy investment.</h2>		\n		Schedule your home energy assessment today.		\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" role=\"button\">\n						GET STARTED\n					</a>\n			<h2>Let us help you navigate your energy future.</h2>		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT</a></h3>		\n		Schedule a home energy assessment with one of our experienced advisors. You will  get expert advice and learn more about the energy efficiency improvements you can make to your home. Understand the common sources of energy waste in your home that have a negative impact on both the comfort of your living space and your wallet. 		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">RECOMMENDATIONS</a></h3>		\n		Want to learn more about recommendations made in your Home Energy Assessment? Your path to energy efficiency starts here. Find out what options you have and where to begin the process of making your home more efficient.		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">YOUR LOCAL UTILITY</a></h3>		\n		Energy New England is proud to provide Energy Efficiency services for 20 municipal light plants in Massachusetts and Rhode Island. Many local utilities offer rebates on Energy Star<sup>®</sup> appliances, thermostats and weatherization. Discover the incentives available meant to assist you in your energy efficiency upgrades. In addition, see if your local utility offers other savings programs that may be right for you.		\n			<h4>Our Partners</h4>		\n			<h5><h5 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\" data-pen-placeholder=\"Type Here...\" style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-style: normal; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);\">Helping to ensure an energy efficient future.</h5></h5>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','HOME','','inherit','closed','closed','','10-revision-v1','','','2018-08-28 18:23:32','2018-08-28 18:23:32','',10,'http://ev.ene.org/10-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2598,2,'2018-08-28 18:23:47','2018-08-28 18:23:47','<h2>Learn to make the most of your energy investment.</h2>		\n		Schedule your home energy assessment today.		\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" role=\"button\">\n						GET STARTED\n					</a>\n			<h2>Let us help you navigate your energy future.</h2>		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT</a></h3>		\n		Schedule a home energy assessment with one of our experienced advisors. You will  get expert advice and learn more about the energy efficiency improvements you can make to your home. Understand the common sources of energy waste in your home that have a negative impact on both the comfort of your living space and your wallet. 		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">RECOMMENDATIONS</a></h3>		\n		Want to learn more about recommendations made in your Home Energy Assessment? Your path to energy efficiency starts here. Find out what options you have and where to begin the process of making your home more efficient.		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">YOUR LOCAL UTILITY</a></h3>		\n		Energy New England is proud to provide Energy Efficiency services for 20 municipal light plants in Massachusetts and Rhode Island. Many local utilities offer rebates on Energy Star<sup>®</sup> appliances, thermostats and weatherization. Discover the incentives available meant to assist you in your energy efficiency upgrades. In addition, see if your local utility offers other savings programs that may be right for you.		\n			<h4>Our Partners</h4>		\n			<h5><h5 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\" data-pen-placeholder=\"Type Here...\" style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-style: normal; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);\">Helping to ensure an energy efficient future.</h5></h5>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','HOME','','inherit','closed','closed','','10-revision-v1','','','2018-08-28 18:23:47','2018-08-28 18:23:47','',10,'http://ev.ene.org/10-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2604,2,'2018-10-16 21:03:02','2018-10-16 21:03:02','<h2>Home Energy Assessment</h2>		\n		<p>Uncover savings by having a <strong>free</strong> assessment of your home\'s energy use.</p>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.energynewengland.com/CMS_Intake.aspx\" role=\"button\">\n						SIGN UP NOW\n					</a>\n		ENE provides conservation services for the residential customers of our partnering utilities. Our highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.<p>You’ll receive a report that outlines the best steps to take in order to improve your home’s energy usage along with how much each step could potentially save you on energy costs in the future. Complimentary energy saving materials, such as LED light bulbs and efficient power strips, will be provided during the course of the assessment as well.</p><p>Participating residential customers can request a Home Energy Assessment, or receive information about rebates and incentives offered by their utility by calling ENE’s energy hotline.</p>RESIDENTIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT<p>The Energy Advisor will evaluate a broad range of energy saving opportunities in the home, including:</p>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Insulation\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Appliances\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Heating/cooling Windows and door weather-stripping \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Water heating Efficient lighting \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Window and door replacement\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Preparing for Your Energy Assessment</h2>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Make a list of concerns you have about your home, such as drafty rooms, old heating equipment, or high bills.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Also, please provide 12 Months of Heating Fuel usage (Oil, Propane, Gas, Wood, etc.) information to the Energy Advisor. If you do not have fuel usage information, please make our Advisor aware of this at the time of your assessment.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										If you have pets, kindly secure them. Please ensure full access to the home with clear access to the attic and basement, and if available a stable ladder.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Should you have any questions or concerns, please call the Energy New England Hotline at: <b>888-772-4242</b> or if you prefer email, <u>solutions@ene.org</u>.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your appointment today.​</h2>		\n		<p>For more information about how Energy New England can help you, please call <strong>508-698-1208 </strong>or email us at <a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\"><strong style=\"text-decoration: underline; color:white;\">solutions@ene.org</strong></a>.</p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','WHY DRIVE ELECTRIC','','inherit','closed','closed','','14-revision-v1','','','2018-10-16 21:03:02','2018-10-16 21:03:02','',14,'http://ev.ene.org/14-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2605,2,'2018-10-16 21:03:41','2018-10-16 21:03:41','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">Understand common sources of energy waste in your home.</p>		\n		<p>Here in Massachusetts and Rhode Island, the winters are cold and the summers are hot. All homes waste energy, increasing utility bills and reducing comfort. We want to help you make the most of your energy investment in your home. ENE has partnered with energy efficiency expert and author, Bruce Harley, to provide you with advice from his book, <u>Insulate and Weatherize</u>. Learn about the many possible sources of energy loss in your home, how to save on your energy bills, and be more energy efficient. Whether you have had a recent Home Energy Assessment and are reviewing the recommendations from the Snugg Pro™ report, or are planning a home improvement project, this section contains information to help you achieve your energy goals.</p>		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n		<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Cut Your Energy Bills</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/home-improvement/insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-071377.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','BUYING GUIDE','','inherit','closed','closed','','16-revision-v1','','','2018-10-16 21:03:41','2018-10-16 21:03:41','',16,'http://ev.ene.org/16-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2607,2,'2018-10-16 21:06:44','2018-10-16 21:06:44','','CHARGING GUIDE','','inherit','closed','closed','','20-revision-v1','','','2018-10-16 21:06:44','2018-10-16 21:06:44','',20,'http://ev.ene.org/20-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2609,2,'2018-10-16 21:08:50','2018-10-16 21:08:50','<h2><p>Air-Conditioning</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Cooling Basics</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Reducing Loads</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Maintenance And Upgrades</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">New Air-Conditioning Systems</a></p>\n			<h1>Cooling Basics</h1>		\n		Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads—and bills—benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.		\n			<p>Where does the heat come from?</p>		\n		In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it’s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it’s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\n			<p>How air conditioners work</p>		\n		Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system’s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\n			<h1>Reducing Loads</h1>		\n		With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than “cooling down” the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run—saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\n			<p>Reduce the need for cooling</p>		\n		One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system’s run time and saves energy. \nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4°F to 6°F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Cond_Pic1.png\" title=\"Air_Cond_Pic1\" alt=\"Air_Cond_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>When you buy a ceiling fan, always choose an Energy Star model. Hundreds are available, with or without built-in efficient lights, for $75 to $225 each.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Duct insulation and sealing</p>		\n		Air-conditioning ducts have the same leakage and insulation issues as those of heating ducts. In fact, leaks and missing insulation in attic ductwork hurt air-conditioning systems more than heating systems, because during peak cooling times attics are usually much hotter than outdoor ambient temperatures. All air conditioning ducts in attics, crawlspaces, and garages should be thoroughly sealed and insulated		\n			<h1>Maintenance and Upgrades</h1>		\n		Like most other equipment, air conditioners need regular maintenance and service. Some things you can probably do yourself, whereas others require a professional technician.		\n			<p>Airflow</p>		\n		Like heat pumps and furnaces, air-conditioning systems depend on adequate airflow to remove heat efficiently from your house. Whether you have a central air conditioner or individual room units, check the filters regularly and clean or replace them when they are dirty— once or twice a season should be adequate. Because airflow is important, do not shut off any of the supply registers in the system—\nespecially if the ducts are located in an attic, garage, or crawlspace.\n			<p>Cleaning air coils</p>		\n		When filters don’t work properly or air gets around them, the evaporator coil can become clogged with dirt and dust. Depending on the system, you may need a service technician to access the coil. If you can reach it yourself, lift the dirt from behind with a stiff brush. Be careful not to drive dirt further in or bend the fins. The outdoor condenser coil should also be kept clean and free of dirt and debris. Don’t spray water directly at the coil, which may drive dirt deeper into the space between the fins. Instead, using a long-bristle brush with flexible bristles, carefully insert the bristles between the fins, and lift the dirt from behind. 		\n			<p>Regular service</p>		\n		Regular service calls—typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, checking and cleaning the blower, condenser, and evaporator coils as needed, checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines, and checking the condensate drain. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing any airflow problems, and then carefully measuring and correcting the refrigerant charge. Like a heat pump, once that has been done, service technicians should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless there is evidence that something is wrong. Like a heat pump, an over- or undercharged air conditioner is less efficient (particularly older models), and systems are often improperly charged. Airflow must be in the recommended range of 400 CFM to 425 CFM per ton before the refrigerant charge can be measured. \n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"236\" height=\"181\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_conditioning_Pic2.png\" alt=\"\" />											<figcaption>Window- or wall-mounted air conditioners have lower efficiency ratings than central systems, but there are no ducts to waste the cold air. And cooling only one or two rooms can use much less energy than cooling an entire house.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h1>New Air-Conditioning Systems</h1>		\n		If you live in a hot climate and have central air conditioning that is 20 years old or more, replacing your system with a new, energy-efficient model should pay for itself in a reasonable time. High-efficiency systems on the market today are more than twice as efficient as systems from the 1980s. But before running out and replacing your system, you will first need to do two other things: Finish any upgrades on the building enclosure, and become familiar with air conditioning products and installation criteria. Of course, if you have a fairly new system (less than 10 years old), it is probably more cost effective to maintain it and keep it running as efficiently as possible until it wears out. As always, energy-efficient upgrades always cost the least when you are fixing or replacing something anyway. If your old air conditioner is on its last legs or not operating, replace it with the most efficient unit you can find.\n			<p>High-efficiency air-conditioning</p>		\n		New central air conditioners are rated for energy performance with a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). SEER ratings are measurements under standardized test conditions of Btu per hour of cooling output, divided by input watts. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. New central air conditioners are required to have a SEER rating of at least 13; the most efficient units have SEER ratings from 16 to 23. Some of the best high efficiency systems have two-speed compressors; the lower speed provides better, more efficient cooling and dehumidification under mild, part load conditions. When you are replacing a central air conditioning unit with a more efficient one, it’s very important to match the new outdoor unit and the indoor evaporator coil. You may be able to save some money on the installation by keeping your old coil but be careful: you’re unlikely to get the full efficiency ratings of the new unit. If you get a proposal to replace only the outdoor unit, the contractor should be able to demonstrate that the existing indoor coil is listed for use with the new outdoor unit; don’t accept “don’t worry, it’s fine the way it is” as an answer.\n			<p>Sizing a system</p>		\n		Proper sizing has been emphasized as a key efficiency issue for years in the energy-efficiency world, but there’s little evidence that it affects operating costs very much. Duct leakage and insulation in unconditioned spaces are far more important, especially with modern, high efficiency equipment. \nOversized air conditioners do cost more to buy and maintain and require more airflow and larger ductwork. Dehumidification, which depends on air flowing through the evaporator coil for enough time to extract condensed moisture, is one important reason to carefully size an air conditioning system in humid climates. When an oversized system runs for only a few minutes, the moisture may just start to collect on the coils before the thermostat is satisfied. Once the unit shuts down, the moisture re-evaporates into the house. An air conditioner that is too large by 50 percent to 100 percent will be unable to control humidity effectively, so people may tend to set the thermostat lower to compensate. Many new, efficient air conditioners have multiple speeds or special dehumidification modes that can effectively compensate for oversizing; if you are in a humid climate, consider one of these features, or get a stand-alone dehumidifier.\nCorrect load calculations are based on your home’s window size, the glass type, and the size and R-values of the walls and roof. The proper size also varies with the direction the home faces: Sometimes a 90-degree rotation can cut the cooling load in half. If a contractor gives you a price for an air conditioner on the phone, or simply offers to replace the existing unit with a new one of the same size, get a bid from someone else, especially if you have already made energy improvements in your house. The money\nyou save by buying a smaller unit may pay for an efficiency upgrade.\nWhen installing a new air conditioner, shop for value, not just for price. Other things to look for when assessing bids on new air-conditioning equipment include the warranties (from both the manufacturer and the installer), service contracts, longevity of the business, customer references, and technician knowledge. Try to find a contractor who is an Energy Star partner and/or NATE certified, or regularly attends manufacturer’s trainings.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Conditioning_Pic3.png\" title=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic3\" alt=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic3\" />											<figcaption>All new air conditioners have an Energy Guide label that shows its efficiency rating, as well as a comparison with the ratings of other units of the same type. Room units have an EER, while central systems have a SEER.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n		Ductless mini-split air conditioners are a great alternative to window units. They are more efficient and quieter, and they don’t use up a window (or allow air leakage). The most efficient units on the market are\nalso heat pumps that can save money on your heating bills, too. A mini-split costs about 10 times as much as a decent window unit, but may cost a third to a half as much as retrofitting central air into an existing home.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/air_Conditioning_Pic4.png\" title=\"air_Conditioning_Pic4\" alt=\"air_Conditioning_Pic4\" />											<figcaption>All new air conditioners have an Energy Guide label that shows its efficiency rating, as well as a comparison with the ratings of other units of the same type. Room units have an EER, while central systems have a SEER.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Conditioning_Pic5.png\" title=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic5\" alt=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic5\" />											<figcaption>New air-conditioning systems are more than twice as efficient as the minimum standards of 20 years ago—the best ones have almost triple the efficiency.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Benefits for {Town} Drivers','','inherit','closed','closed','','48-revision-v1','','','2018-10-16 21:08:50','2018-10-16 21:08:50','',48,'http://ev.ene.org/48-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),